I have a mix of both Peco and Atlas flextrack. The Peco track ties are softer than the Atlas ties so you don't have to drill holes (you may bend a few nails here and there though) and the Peco nails hold fine in Homasote. Yes the Atlas holes are a bit larger but the Peco nails still hold. I'm sure Atlas has nails for their own flextrack.
Otherwise just get smallest drill you can find closest to whatever nails you'll use.
Caution: Once you nail down the track and then ballast it my experience is the track is almost unuseable if you ever have to remove it. Glue,ballast, nail holes, etc....best to get new track.
Good luck
What size are your nails? I have used track spikes along the edge of the rails. This way the spikes would not be seen.
I opened the tie holes in my Atlas code 83 concrete tie flex with one of the track nails. Cut off the nailhead, chuck the nail in a Dremel tool and attack with great gusto.
As far as recovering track that has been laid with caulk, the cleanup is a bit tedious, but the flex remained undamaged (and has since been re-laid.) OTOH, track that has been ballasted might require a swim in a washtub to loosen the (hopefully water soluble) glue and roadbed fragments. (Don't do it in your bathtub unless you have a very understanding wife and a brother in the plumbing business!)
I have some flex on my present layout that has been re-laid as many as five times. It has been anchored with everything from spikes to caulk. The main thing is to be gentle when lifting it.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on re-lay flex with hand-laid specialwork)
I have recovered track that has been glued with white glue and ballasted. Buy yourself a bottle of windshield washer solvent from wallmart or any where you prefer. The kind you pour into the cars bottle to squirt the windshield. Pour some on an old rag soaking it well and set it on the track and let it soak into the ballast. Wait a few minutes and place a small flexible putty knife under the ties and just simply lift the track and ballast. Clean it with soap and water and rinse well.
This works well if you only glue with white glue like I do. I have mostly recycled track on my latest module.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Lefty
GKMDB wrote:The nails I have (from long ago) are about 1/4" long and fit through the pre-dilled hole in the Atlas track. I will try to find a 1/64" bit. I don't know of Lowe's or Menard's would carry such a small size. Thanks for the suggestion.
I too tack my track down instead of gluing it for about the same reasons as you have about prying it up, damaging it, having to clean it etc. I have found after many years that once tacked and ballasted, the ballast glue if strong enough will hold the track very securely to cork. I use 1.75oz wire brads purchased at Lowes. $ .97 for about a zillion of 'em. The drawbacks they do have is (with any nail or tack) if you hit too hard with a mini hammer, they will bend the ties down in the middle and possibly kink the rails out of gauge. Also the brads I use are very shiny silver in color and must be painted to blend in or else they will look very unrealistic. I don't bother with drilling, just a dimple put into the tie with a sharp tack is enough for the brad to break through and hold the track.
Matt
I can't say that it's the case with all Atlas flex track, but their code 83 flex has the holes cast into the ties, although most are not readily apparent. Simply flip the track upside down and use an Atlas track spike, held with pliers, to gently "punch" the holes through. And Atlas track spikes are reasonably-priced and pre-blackened, too. They're .035" in diameter, so a #65 drill bit (or any up to about a #61) will work well if you need to drill any extra holes.
Wayne
doctorwayne wrote: I can't say that it's the case with all Atlas flex track, but their code 83 flex has the holes cast into the ties, although most are not readily apparent. Simply flip the track upside down and use an Atlas track spike, held with pliers, to gently "punch" the holes through. And Atlas track spikes are reasonably-priced and pre-blackened, too. They're .035" in diameter, so a #65 drill bit (or any up to about a #61) will work well if you need to drill any extra holes.Wayne
Code 100 also has holes cast into the ties but sometimes those particular ties need to be removed during the cutting/fitting process and then it's necessary to make your own on occasion.