As I made the first transition to the second module I missed a slight dip in track level followed by a slight rise. Either one by itself would not have been a problem but together they resulted in a uncoupling of the train. While to say this was on flat ground if I had truly laid flat track flat this would not have happened. But you live and learn, at the transition between modules I will have to pay more attention to my track laying.
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Very true. I spent today fiddling with a single joint in my track work. I don't want to be able to even see any effect on the rolling stock. Time spent doing it right is time saved later when not having to debug the mess.
Magnus
What you could do to protect the ends of the rail when you have to move is to screw a piece of wood across the end of the module, projecting above the track. But, I think you'd have a hard time re-joining those rail ends and making a good transition that won't cause problems with the wheels going over them. I too have a modular layout (I think it's also referred to as "dominos" or a sectional layout) and, like John, I use short pieces of track across the joints. Mine are 4" long. Even if I can't get those pieces out easily to move the layout and have to cut them, I can always get more 4" pieces and they'll fit right in. When I joined the sections together, I put a carpenter's level across the joint and like John said, any little difference is spread across two joints 4" apart.
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
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For good performance on modular sections you can't use the old framing carpenter's axiom, "Cut to suit and hammer to fit." You gotta be a bit more persnickety. Life is a whole lot easier if the framework is of the same dimensions, is square and perpendicular at the joining face, with same thickness plywood subroadbed applied to the top. Perpendicular joining faces of the two modules in question is the most critical consideration.
Before laying track, lay a long non-flexing metal straight edge across the top to make sure it is level and even. Joint the two modules together with what ever method you choose (screws, clamps, nails, etc.) then lay the track. This should avoid any elevation changes to cause headaches later on. If you use a roadbed material such as cork, then be sure you sand it level and even across the joint between modules before laying track.
If your modules are meant to come apart and be rejoined more than once, then I would drill a few holes through the abutting framework of the modules large enough to accept a dowel, gluing the dowel into one and letting it fit snuggly into its neighbor. That way you will have perfect alightment of the railheads upon rejoining the modules. The only thing you need worry about then is any vertical kinks introduces because the far ends of the modules are not on the same plane, i.e., one end is higher than the other. That's easy to take care of on a portable module with adjustable feet all the way around.
And, as an extra measure of making your modules bullet proof, use the 3" to 4" bridge track across the module joints as explained by the other folks who have responded to your query.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
GKC1839SLC wrote: For good performance on modular sections you can't use the old framing carpenter's axiom, "Cut to suit and hammer to fit." You gotta be a bit more persnickety. Life is a whole lot easier if the framework is of the same dimensions, is square and perpendicular at the joining face, with same thickness plywood subroadbed applied to the top. Perpendicular joining faces of the two modules in question is the most critical consideration. Before laying track, lay a long non-flexing metal straight edge across the top to make sure it is level and even. Joint the two modules together with what ever method you choose (screws, clamps, nails, etc.) then lay the track. This should avoid any elevation changes to cause headaches later on. If you use a roadbed material such as cork, then be sure you sand it level and even across the joint between modules before laying track.If your modules are meant to come apart and be rejoined more than once, then I would drill a few holes through the abutting framework of the modules large enough to accept a dowel, gluing the dowel into one and letting it fit snuggly into its neighbor. That way you will have perfect alightment of the railheads upon rejoining the modules. The only thing you need worry about then is any vertical kinks introduces because the far ends of the modules are not on the same plane, i.e., one end is higher than the other. That's easy to take care of on a portable module with adjustable feet all the way around.And, as an extra measure of making your modules bullet proof, use the 3" to 4" bridge track across the module joints as explained by the other folks who have responded to your query.
Door hinges are something to consider when joining modular sections.
A belt sander will match table heigth quick-quick if your carpentry isn't dead on.