I searched the forum archives, about this topic, but no one asked my question. I have 24" radius curve templates and some straight track. How do I start drawing the track on the 2in pink foam? I have sharpies and felt-tip markers. Do I start w/ the curve areas? Should I use the ties as guides for putting down the cork? Please offer your suggestions so I don't mess up.
My other question is about connecting two different tyes of track. I bought some ME weathered flex-track. Do I need to do anything before connecting it to Atlas turnouts?
TIA!
Lee
First, test your sharpies and markers. Some of them eat foam.
If you are going to lay cork roadbed, you want to mark the track centerline - that's where the vertical edge of the split cork goes. If marking to lay track directly on foam, it's better to mark the tie ends. (I lay track with grey latex caulk, so the marked centerline does a quick disappearing act once tracklaying starts.)
Another problem with marking the TOP of the roadbed. Some problems have been reported with sharpies, where the color bled up through the ballast. If your sharpies bleed, pick a color that won't be obvious, not baby blue or shocking pink!
You mentioned having a curve template and a straightedge. Have you given any thought to laying spiral easements? (I'll simply say that I do, and then drop the subject.)
When connecting Brand X anything to Brand Y anything, there are two considerations - vertical mismatch and rail joiner compatibility. Slip a rail joiner on one, then try to connect it to the other. This might call for trying different brands of joiners or getting creative with long-nose pliers. Then, check to see if the ties are off the 'ground' on one side or the other. Atlas uses thick ties under their Code 83 products (to line up the railheads with their code 100 products) so you might have to add .017" shims under the ME flex - or do some creative sanding under the Atlas side.
Other than that, take the time to bevel off the sharp corner on the top inside of the railhead on both sides of every joint. Just take off a little - maybe .01 across the railhead, and .05" long - to eliminate the possibility of having a flange catch and climb over if your joints are less-than-perfectly aligned.
These are the methods that work for me. Others use other techniques that are equally valid for them. However you do it, have fun...
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with flex and hand-laid specialwork)
Marking the track centerline for the split roadbed will be the hardest part. I bought several pieces of different radius pre-curved atlas snap-track to use as my curve templates. I just lay out the snap-track and mark the center between the ties. Then take up the track and draw in the centerline. The smaller radius is the one that you need to take the most care with. Broader sweeping curves can be drawn in by hand. I make sure everything is going to fit and connect cleanly and smoothly before I glue anything down. I use caulk to hold the roadbed in place, but only put half down at a time so I can keep track of the centerline as I go. Once the roadbed is down, I use flex track on the roadbed, which was laid in the correct shape. I also hold the track down with latex caulk. Large T pins will go a long way in holding things in place until they dry.
Chuck is right about connecting anything to anything. However, if you are going to solder your rail joiners, you do want to remove the weathering from the ends of there rail where it goes into the joints before you connect them. A small wire brush will work.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Greetings,
I generally use the Atlas snap track in n scale. I don't do a whole lot of hills. Having said that, what I do is lay the track down where I want it to go. If it is a small layout I set it all down on the pink foam. I put T-pins in each hole when everything is good. I then put my liquid nails on the bottom of 1/2 of my cork and do the outside or back half first I hold the cork in place with more T-pins. The next day I come back and do the inside of the track, once again using T-pins to hold the cork in place on the foam. Lastly the switches are finished. This has worked well for me with both the sections and flex track. I come back later and as I glue the track down I pull the T-pins out of the track. Usually I check my wiring before I glue the track down, t-pin heads parellel to the rails and all the way down on the ties! This has worked well for me. Ballasting is last. Depending on what you glued your rails to your roadbed with you may want to leave the pins in until the ballasting glue has set up.
Happy modelling,
Bob Lipka
Modeling in N scale: Rock Island freight and passenger, with a touch of the following; Wabash Cannon Ball, CB&Q passenger, and ATSF freight and passenger. I played in Peoria (Heights).