I use a disposeable paper cup, like those Dixie cups sold for kitchen and bathroom dispensers, to distribute the scenic material. Just dump a small amount in a cup, squeeze the cup to form a pouring "spout", then tap the cup with your finger while holding it over the area to be sceniced. This gives you pretty good control over how much material is distributed and where it goes. I use a soft 1/2" or 3/4" brush to spread the material around, as needed, then apply "wet" water and diluted white glue as you would for any scenery project. I use this method for any area, large or small, as I find the coverage with WS shakers too hard to control.
Wayne
Below are some tools I use for small areas, especially areas next to buildings. I use the medicine dropper to soak the area with wet water or alcohol after everything is in place. Then use a small bottle to apply the diluted glue. I've since replace the mustard bottle with some of those squirt bottles that small diners use for condiments.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
A set of makeup brushes from a garage sale for 50 cents.
A plastic spoon from Dairy Queen for free.
I bought a set of spice bottles in a revolving rack and use them to store small amounts of scenery material. They have perforated lids under their caps. I can shake the material out into a small area. I store the bulk of my scenery material in 1 kg peanut butter jars and use the cut off top of a pop bottle as a funnel to transfer it into the spice bottles. Popsicle sticks are good for spreading stuff in a small area. You can get a bag of them at a craft store or even a grocery store. I use a 3/4" paintbrush as someone else mentioned to spread the scenery material. I use an old glue bottle to apply the 50/50 glue/water mix and for tight places I've got some syringes (without needles, of course).
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
de N2MPU Jack
Proud NRA Life Member and supporter of the 2nd. Amendment
God, guns, and rock and roll!
Modeling the NYC/NYNH&H in HO and CPRail/D&H in N
jackn2mpu wrote:I used to use the syringes Micro Mark sells but gave up on them. Hard to maintain an even flow after a little while. The rubber gasket on the plunger part tended to get gummed up with the glue/water mix. And when that happened and the plunger finally cane unstuck, there was a real deluge of adhesive where I didn't need it. Went to an ear syringe which seems to work out okay. Just have to remember to wash out the bulb when I'm done for the day.
I've never had that problem with my syringes. I even store the glue mix in them and the syringes are airtight enough that it doesn't harden. Maybe the difference is that the ones I use are medical syringes. If the plunger is stuck, try pulling the plunger backwards to get it unstuck. That way the glue won't squirt out of the tip.
All advice given so far has been good. When I am applying scenery material to any area, I don't try and do it all at once. I start with the fine stuff first and get it glued down and dry. Then work toward the larger ground foam. I ballast after the fine GF is applied and set. Basically, it goes from the simulated dirt, then ballast, then green, from small to large.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.