Haven't heard anything about it on here, and I can't believe none of you know about this yet, but anyway, Fast Tracks just released a new tool: The StockAid Filing Jig for filing the notches out of the stock rails. Hallelujah!!!!!
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/stockaid-stock-rail-filing-tool-for-code-70-83-rail-p-3741.php
kinda pricey for the size... but its either that or a belt sander (mad $$$) or doing this all by hand with a mill file and eyeing it out......
You'll still need to eye out the taper, but *** does this make it easy. Another reason there is no excuse not to handlay!!! haha
Sounds like a useful accessory for people who notch their stock rails.
OTOH, I don't notch my stock rails, so I won't be a customer. I file my points to a more complex design, which rides up on the stock rail base. This gives me the advantage of being able to move my stock rails longitudinally, anything from millimeters to inches, as tracklaying progresses and the situation requires.
Not running down a quality product. Just pointing out why this one modeler won't be using it.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with hand-laid specialwork)
I have been handlaying for 35 years and have never had a switch fail because of a misfiled stock rail. Of all the things you have to file for a switch, this has to be easiest and requires the least precision. Its a $70 solution to a virtual non-problem.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Greg, they must be responding to a lot of noisy folks who say they need help with this part of the process...so good for them. But, I gotta tell ya, I just used the fine stone on a two stone bench grinder and got a good grip on the rail stock that needed notching. I only botched one piece in about 30 that I have pared back that way. I felt the money should go into a jeweler's saw and some fine embricated filament blades instead so that the frogs could be severed from the rest of the turnout almost invisibly.
-Crandell
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2485
(nuff said...)
I tried the belt-sander technique once and didn't care for it. I now use a dremel with a cutoff wheel (using the flat face of the cutoff wheel) to make the tapered notch. The tool would be nice but at this point in my layout with only 5 or 6 more turnouts to make it would be hard to justify the money spent to get the tool.
Maybe if I had to make several dozen more turnouts to do would I consider getting one.....
As others have said there are many ways of solving the problem.
Thanks for the find though.
-G-
It has to be done on the Fast Tracks turnouts, though, loathar. Otherwise, you won't be able to get the point rail flush against the stock rail. This is due mostly to the solder bead needing space that isn't on the prototype. Also, the stock rail base would otherwise provide a ramp for the point to ride up on...which would mean the point tip would provide a sharp lift at that place. Rolling items would buck over the point tip top. The jig and assembly process only mills the one face of the point rail, and that includes filing off the foot on one side. The base of the point rail will still be cammed up by the stock rail base. Notching the stock rail foot lets the two rail heads meet at the same height.
loathar wrote:Besides, notching the stock rails isn't prototypical...
Yes, but do you REALLY notice it? haha. I mean, some things are just going too far in terms of being prototypical, imo. but to each their own.
That $40 belt sander is tempting, I must say. Although being 22 and not owning my own house, buying such a tool would be pretty impractical, haha.
I would be all over this tool, though, if it wasn't $65. thats just a liiittle bit too much for such a small tool, imo. We'll see. I don't have a vice, either, so using a mill file, which i tried doing once with a smaller file, is kind of a pain.
anyone wanna go halves on this?
EDIT: didn't wanna start a whole new thread, but do you guys think that one could substitute Walthers Goo for Barge cement for gluing rail to ties, specifically Central Valley strips?
I bought a 1" belt (with 5" disk) Delta benchtop sander for $90 at Home Depot several years ago. In addition to making it easy to notch the rail base of the stock rails for the points I use it for grinding the points and the frog rails. I've handlaid scads of turnouts and crossings (and a double slip) using the sander to fabricate components. I also use it for taking the splinters off the edge of pieces of woodwork.
For just a few $$ more (and I'm assuming they are now more pricey than when I got mine) I'd heartily recommend getting the general pupose belt sander rather than the special purpose rail filing tool.
But each to their own.
Regards,
Charlie Comstock
DeadheadGreg wrote:I would be all over this tool, though, if it wasn't $65. thats just a liiittle bit too much for such a small tool, imo. We'll see. I don't have a vice, either, so using a mill file, which i tried doing once with a smaller file, is kind of a pain. anyone wanna go halves on this? EDIT: didn't wanna start a whole new thread, but do you guys think that one could substitute Walthers Goo for Barge cement for gluing rail to ties, specifically Central Valley strips?
DeadheadGreg wrote: I would be all over this tool, though, if it wasn't $65. thats just a liiittle bit too much for such a small tool, imo. We'll see. I don't have a vice, either, so using a mill file, which i tried doing once with a smaller file, is kind of a pain.
Here's the tool I've used for 30 years.
On the benchwork, find where a joist or other 1x4 sticks out towards the aisle. In the top of the 1x4, at the end, cut a groove with a razor saw. Turn the rail sideways and put the base into the groove. File away on the side of the base that is sticking up in the air. OBTW, works well for points and frog rails too.
You can send me the $65 any time.
Greg-If you have a Big Lots or Odd Lots store near you , check out their glue section. Mine had some stuff called-The Original Super Glue Contact Cement. It's not CA, it's a contact cement. Brush it on both parts. Let set up and press together. It's pretty darn strong.(and cheap)
Crandell-Solder BEADS??? Sorry guy! My solder flows flat and smooth...
DeadheadGreg wrote:I don't have a vice, either...
Dude. You're a modeler, right? There's one.
Mick
I dont get it. haha
are you saying modeling is a vice??? Well.... maybe you're right. Every time I enter a room, I imagine what kind of layout could be built in it.........
my other vice used to be collecting Phish and Grateful Dead shows. But then I got all of them (almost). So then I got back into this, haha.
DeadheadGreg wrote: I dont get it. hahaare you saying modeling is a vice??? Well.... maybe you're right. Every time I enter a room, I imagine what kind of layout could be built in it.........my other vice used to be collecting Phish and Grateful Dead shows. But then I got all of them (almost). So then I got back into this, haha.
I don't know if modeling is a vice, but the local Vice Squad has shown a lot of interest in some alleged 'models.'
OTOH, if you want to save wear and tear on the fingers, use a VISE (or Vise-Grips) to hold the part you're filing.
Back in the dark ages, MR's Silver Plate Road cartoon had Mrs. Van reading Mr. Van the riot act - until he pointed to the thing bolted to the end of the workbench and explained the difference in spelling.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on hand laid filed specialwork)