Hi there
I'm in the process of building a new 'round the walls shelf layout.
The towns/industrial areas will be on plywood joined by 2 1/2" wide subroadbed. Almost cookie cutter style if you like.
The open areas that the 2 1/2" roadbed runs through I intend to use extruded foam.
The towns/industrial areas have me scratching my head as to how to treat scenic wise.
By that I mean, imagine the track work in those areas on 1/8" and 1/4" cork roadbed. The surrounding open area is flat plywood.
How do I treat that open flat area ?? To install telegraph poles, trees, fences etc I'll have to drill holes into the plywood ??
I was thinking of using "ground goop" to fill in the blanks, so to speak.
Do you think that might work ??
Hopefully I've explained myself sufficiently for you all to understand the message I am trying to convey.
Appreciate your assistance
cheers
You're correct.
You should also provide for scenery effects below the "base (plywood) level" for creeks/brooks and gulches and such to avoid the "table-top, train-set effect." The plywood most likely needs to be above the top of the basic framework (minimum of an inch or two) so one doesn't have to significantly cut into (weaken) the framework structure.
Mark
Hi bagman
Essentialy correct but flat ground isn't flat.
Cut some contour shapes out of some corrugated packing boxes and stick these down, don't go more than two layers in any area. now spread your filler/ plaster over them.
This will give a few slightly raised areas to provide a more natural look you will know you have it right if the undulations have a natural flow and are not very obviouse.
The difference between a dead flat area and an area with slight undulations has to be seen to be believed
The only dead flat scenic area should be lawns around houses or concrete paving.
regards John Busby
Lawns frequently slope downward from the building to the sidewalk, and even parking lots should have a slight crown. (The ones that don't develop those inch-deep puddles after every rain event.)
In a true urban area, your modeling should include storm drains at the street curbs and LOTS of manhole covers in the streets - especially if you don't have poleborne electrical power distribution. Streets need definite crowns. Sidewalks almost always have a slight slope toward the street.
Urban buildings have foundations IN the ground. Many modelers set their buildings ON the ground. There is a definite visual difference.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
It is not uncommon for trains to be slightly lower that the surrounding terrain.
It is unfortunate that you placed the track directly in the plywood, but you can add 1" foam every but the track, and have the town higher than the track.
Of course, the better route would be to pull up the track and put it on the foam. If you don't, it will probably eventually be the reason why you tear this layout down.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Mainline trackage is generally raised/ ballasted for proper drainage. Others have mentioned that flat terrain is never that flat.
If you don't want the raise the track at those plywood areas, at least add a base or foundations to any structures so that even minimal scenery contours willnot place all your buildings in a "hole". All trackside buildings/ loading platforms can usually only be raised the thickness of the roadbed (1/4-3/8") or the platforms will end up too high.
True cookie cutter has the plywood placed on risers above the framework. Cardboard lattice, wire screning and other covering methods allows for all the scenery contours, be it above or well below track level.
Yards are usually the only spots that could be placed on the same level(plywood) and work well. Some do still keep the mainline slightly raised and drop to a thinner roadbed and track guage for the siding/ yard.
At the point you are at now, the only way around this is to set buildings and scenry on a raised foam or individual foundation(buildings), make any cuts through the ply for any lowered scenery (gullies, rivers, drainage ditched, etc) done with router, Dremel or Rotozip. Thin foam 3/8 siding insulation or 1/2" foam may make filling in the scenery easier. Plaster, ground goop, sculptamold etc can then be used for the scenery prior to painting and ground foam.
I would refrain from raising everything as all your track will be running in a ditch.
This spot was done using various methods of flat ply, spline, 3/4 ply on risers, extruded foam, wire screening, cardboard lattice and plaster cloth. Each technique was used depending on actual use and final results.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org