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Draw bridge need help

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  • Member since
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Draw bridge need help
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 19, 2004 6:11 AM
I am going to put a ho In living room need a bridge that I can raise or lower to get in or out a door. Any ideas will help and also would like to know if they sell such a kit sutch as hinge etc. e-mail is weatherman28us@yahoo.com
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Midtown Sacramento
  • 3,340 posts
Posted by Jetrock on Thursday, February 19, 2004 7:41 AM
Generally they don't make bridges wide or sturdy enough to bridge a gap like that--what is often used is a lift-out or swing-out section which can be moved out of the way (horizontally or vertically) by the operator. There are articles about how to build such things in any reasonably complete model railroad reference--they can be made using a hinge (to swing up or out) or to lift out completely.
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Posted by ndbprr on Thursday, February 19, 2004 10:36 AM
Drawbridges are notoriously poor performers due to the allignment necessary for everything to work properly. One of the most impressive bridges I ever saw was one that the entire center span raised to allow passage. I believe the proper term is a vertical lift bridge. The easiest thing to do may be to mount the roadbed on the back of the door for the entrance with some type of signal light that say's, "Don't open this door now" or put a window in it so people can see if it is safe to open.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 19, 2004 11:52 AM
Weatherman28us,

Is this a door or a doorway that you are describing? My living room does not have any doors but yours may.

I recommend you make a lift out piece of scenery and track to close this gap. It could be built over a sturdy piece of wood like a 2 x 6 for example. Then when you need to use it you could set it in place and check the alignment of the track. An actual drawbridge is difficult to construct and maintain the alignment tolerances necessary for good operation.

As a matter of fact, I would build this scene to appear as a trestle over a swampy area. Because it is a lift out section, you can build most of it right on your workbench and give it some great detail. Walthers makes a fair trestle kit of plastic to resemble a wooden trestle. Micro Engineering also makes a steel girder trestle kit that I think is quite good but you may want to model timber pile bents instead of steel bents, unless you decide you want a high level crossing. Micro Engineering makes steel tower bents if you need this too.

Good Luck - Ed
  • Member since
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Posted by jrbarney on Thursday, February 19, 2004 12:19 PM
Weatherman28us,
I'm not sure it will fit your specific situation, but one possible alternative is a train elevator. It has been discussed in at least two previous threads, one of which is:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=9753
Hope this helps.
Bob
NMRA Life 0543
"Time flies like an arrow - fruit flies like a banana." "In wine there is wisdom. In beer there is strength. In water there is bacteria." --German proverb
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: San Jose, California
  • 3,154 posts
Posted by nfmisso on Friday, February 20, 2004 7:45 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by weatherman28us

I am going to put a ho In living room need a bridge that I can raise or lower to get in or out a door. Any ideas will help and also would like to know if they sell such a kit sutch as hinge etc. e-mail is weatherman28us@yahoo.com


You are basically on your own. But some general suggestions/possiblities:

1. make it as rigid as possible. (think aluminum angle and foam)
2. make it as light as possible.
3. use two standard door hinges at one end, and one at the other, which you pull the pin on to allow it to go up (or flip down).
4. interlock the track for a couple of feet on each side of the bridge.
5. consider a bridge swinging on a verticle axis like a standard door.
6. you will need some sort of alignment pin for the opening end ( a standard door hinge is quite good.)
7.do not use a single solid peice of lumber for you main support as Ed suggest, too heavy, not rigid and has a tendency to warp, use thin aluminum or plywood over foam (like the way doors are constructed).
8. assemble the structure on to the layout, make sure it working smoothly, then lay the track over it, and a for a couple feet each side, and finally, cut the track.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California

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