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Well, I took the plunge--I bought the Grand Valley layout.

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  • Member since
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  • From: Carlsbad CA
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Well, I took the plunge--I bought the Grand Valley layout.
Posted by The Old Man on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 6:46 PM

As a pretty much newbie I felt that this would be the best way for me to create the landscape for my Deadwood SD Railroad.  It's going to have a goldmine so I'm reversing the town with the factory area so I can make a mine against the mountain.  (Of course it doesn't make sense that they're excavating the same mountain that the train tunnels are in--oh well).

Any way here's my question--I have a 4x8 table that I've made.  Should I glue the foam base to the table top, or just leave it loose?  I guess if I leave it loose I can always slide it off the table top.  Or another thought is to put another 4x8 thin playwood sheet on top of the table and glue it to that.  Any thoughts?  Am I overmanaging this?

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Posted by ARTHILL on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 6:53 PM
You need to fasten it some way or you will eventually knock it off. A couple long screws through the foam into the table may be enough.
If you think you have it right, your standards are too low. my photos http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/ARTHILL/ Art
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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 7:05 PM

You could spot glue it every 6" or so around the edge of the tabletop.

Enjoy

Paul 

If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Posted by loathar on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 8:12 PM
Gluing it to a sheet of plywood sounds like the way to go. I would use something stiff like 3/4" or better so it doesn't flex and hurt the scenery if you have to move it around.
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Posted by selector on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 9:43 PM

If you really would like to remove it, or can anticipate having to, and would rather not use screws or glues/caulks, perhaps a dowel near each corner?  Inset one end of a dowel into the wood and drill a slightly larger hole through the foam.  Ideally, these holes will be covered or obscured somehow...perhaps a building, a tree or hedgerow, a truck.  Then simply set the foam surface in place and let the dowels prevent slippage.

A thought.

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Posted by SpaceMouse on Tuesday, April 15, 2008 10:41 PM

Glue it. Save you a lot of grief.

What would you really want to save it for anyway. If you are really serious about your Deadwood layout and who wouldn't be? (I built a layout set in 1885) Then I'd want to pretty it up and put in some cool buildings and some trees and some cowboys wrangling steers--

Well by that time, if you want to take it down, saving a piece of foam separate from your ply would be the least of your worries.  

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by The Old Man on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 1:39 PM
Thanks to all.  I glueing it down.
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Posted by Lateral-G on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 3:03 PM

Please post pics of your progress. I'm keen on getting this layout to have as a second one to satisfy my pure HO need (the main layout is exclusively narrow gauge).

 

-G- 

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Posted by yougottawanta on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 3:27 PM
Word of caution . Some glues will melt the foam . Recommend using an inexpensive silicone "glue" or test a small area on the foam with the glue you have on hand. Also some foams come with a thin layer of film you might want to pull off prior to gluing. Sometimes the glue will attach to the film and then the film seperates from the foam.    
  • Member since
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Posted by The Old Man on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 6:11 PM

Thanks.  I'm using Liquid Nails for Projects.

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Posted by The Old Man on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 9:25 PM

I didn't know if I should start a new thread for this: I am going to build Grand Valley using Bachmann EZ Track (I already have a ton of it).  I used the excellent program Anyrail to try to closely match the plan that uses Atlas snap track--you can see a fuzzy image of it at the Woodland Scenic website under the instructions section. 

I am linking to a jpg of my layout.  I will be putting the down with a train station on the right and a goldmine on the right connecting to the hill.  The program puts the Bachmann' part numbers next to the track except for the 3" and the 2.25".  You should be able to tell which is which by their size.  There is also a 2 inch, four of which connect to the 90 degree crossing.  These are not sold separately.

As you can see there are two close, but no cigar, connections.  One is in the top row 6th column and the other is right at the crossing of the 4th and 5th column and the 3rd and 4th row.

Do you think these will be alright?  Can you see any other way to put this layout together?

BTW, I'm still learning to post.

[img]http://PhotobucketB

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Posted by loathar on Thursday, April 17, 2008 9:40 AM

That Anyrail is a GREAT track cad program!

I personally think your asking for trouble by not using the Atlas track for that layout. That's the track it was designed for. Your going to have more problems getting it to line up with pattern on the foam base then the ones you see in the cad drawing.
I don't think that Bachmann track is very flexible when it comes to fudging connections that don't line up properly. You might want to rethink that idea.My 2 cents [2c]

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Posted by The Old Man on Thursday, April 17, 2008 10:53 AM
I appreciate the feedback.  Here are my thoughts:  I have the pieces I don't have coming from Ridge Road Station (best prices I've found for EZ Track).  I'm going to lay it out and see how it fits.  In regard to the template, as I understand it, you can make some changes and then use the foam pencil to outline the track.  If I don't feel this is working does anyone know who have the best price on the Atlas track back?
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Posted by loathar on Thursday, April 17, 2008 1:28 PM

http://www.nhshobbies.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=grand+valley

I don't think you'll find it cheaper than $65.

PS-Did you get the building kit for that too? Do you like it? Would you say it's worth about $150? I've been looking at that for my city scene but don't know anyone that's bought one. They say it comes with 15 structures and something like 200 detail parts. Is this true?

Thanks

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Posted by yougottawanta on Thursday, April 17, 2008 1:42 PM
Liquid nail will probably melt foam ?
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Posted by loathar on Thursday, April 17, 2008 1:47 PM

 yougottawanta wrote:
Liquid nail will probably melt foam ?

The original formula does. The "For Projects" and "For Foam" formulas don't.

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Posted by The Old Man on Thursday, April 17, 2008 5:33 PM
 loathar wrote:

http://www.nhshobbies.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=grand+valley

I don't think you'll find it cheaper than $65.

PS-Did you get the building kit for that too? Do you like it? Would you say it's worth about $150? I've been looking at that for my city scene but don't know anyone that's bought one. They say it comes with 15 structures and something like 200 detail parts. Is this true?

Thanks

No.  I was considering the building kit, but at this point I don't think it makes sense.  As I said one loop is going to be the mine operation and so that eliminates the 3 or 4 industrial structures that are in the kits.  I already have almost finished Skip's Ribs which I'm turning into my father-in-law's grandfather's cigar and notion shop.  Skip's Ribs matches the original Deadwood building about 75%.  I will probably buy some of the 3 building kit's that are in the Walther's catalog.  You get like a corner building and one or two others.  I think they may be DPM's.

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Posted by Mailman56701 on Friday, April 18, 2008 6:33 PM
 loathar wrote:

 yougottawanta wrote:
Liquid nail will probably melt foam ?

The original formula does. The "For Projects" and "For Foam" formulas don't.

 

 

   Fwiw, I've never used anything but plain Liquid Nails on foam, and it has never melted any of it.

  

"Realism is overrated"
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Posted by Phoebe Vet on Saturday, April 19, 2008 8:14 AM
I, too, have used Liquid Nails with no problems.

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

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Posted by stebbycentral on Sunday, April 20, 2008 10:23 AM
 The Old Man wrote:

As you can see there are two close, but no cigar, connections.  One is in the top row 6th column and the other is right at the crossing of the 4th and 5th column and the 3rd and 4th row.

Do you think these will be alright?  Can you see any other way to put this layout together?

I have had no trouble intermixing Bachman EZ track and regular Atlas track.  My current N scale layout is a hodgepodge of both, mainly because I prefer the Atlas turnouts over the Bachman, but I hate ballasting so I use the EZ track for regular runs.  

To me the obvious solution to your "close but no cigar" problem is to substitute a length of flex track in the areas where things just don't quite line up.  That way you can mold the track as needed to make a smooth transition. You will have to build up the road bed so that the rail height matches, and you will have to ballast that short portion. 

I have figured out what is wrong with my brain!  On the left side nothing works right, and on the right side there is nothing left!

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Posted by modelmaker51 on Sunday, April 20, 2008 3:12 PM
All I have ever used is regular Liquid Nails, also with no problems. The fumes are toxic (until it's dry), so keep a fan or two going and/or a window open. Unless you're  putting down big blobs of glueyou should have any melting foam. The best way is to put down a 1/4" to 3/8" bead, press the foam down to spread the glue, then pull it back up for 15-30 seconds and then press it into place. I have used both skewers and 3" sheetrock screws to hold things in place until the glue dries.

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

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