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N scale - What to buy

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N scale - What to buy
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, February 15, 2004 8:25 PM
I am an HO modeler that is trying his hand at N Scale on a brnad new lew out. Does anybody have any recommendations as to which company makes good N scale products like Athearn, Atlas etc.? Who is best? Who should I stay away from? Any help would be apreciated.

Thanks

Ross
Buffalo, NY
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 16, 2004 11:11 AM
Ross,

Kato is usually a really good choice, however, you can find good models of locomotives by Micro-Trains, Model Power, Atlas. For rolling stock, Atlas, Micro-Trains, InterMountain, all seem to me to be pretty well made. I don't have a large stock of N-scale stuff, but I was a member of an N-scale club. We were located in the basement of my LHS, so had ready access to stuff we might want or need.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 16, 2004 8:57 PM
If you want the best, stick with Kato and Micro-Trains. The next tier would be Atlas and the smaller makers like Intermountain, Roundhouse, and DeLuxe Innovations. I think Life-Like can be included in this tier, too, since they make a lot of very good-running and well detailed equipment. But Life-Like also offers budget equipment which can be underwhelming. Model Power and Bachmann make up the bottom tier, since they like Life-Like try to offer budget equipment that is rather poor. But, even Model Power and Bachmann have their premium lines, with a few models (such as Bashmann's 2-8-0) that are as good as anything out there. The only surefire advice I can give in terms of what to avoid is that you avoid the cheap! Price is a very good indicator of quality in N-scale, although Life-Like can sometimes violate this by offering good-running (if noisy) deisels for under $30.

Since you're a reformed HO'er, you have an advantage, in that you probably still think in HO scale. What I mean is that you'll be more likely to plan your layout using 18" or 24" radius curves, with benchwork depths of 30" to 36", with track centers no closer than 2", and vertical clearance between crossing routes reckoned as 4". If you maintain these prejudices, you'll end up with an N-scale layout full of broad curves, scenic depth, realistically wide Rights-Of-Way, and long gentle gradients. Plus, you'll discover spaces here and there for an extra industrial spur or passing siding, using more conventional N-scale track spacings and curve radii. I always advocate planning one's layout in the next larger scale, so hopefully you're not dreaming of all the spaghetti-bowl you can cram into a miniscule space using N-scale.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 16, 2004 11:02 PM
Ross of Buffalo, NY
Does anybody have any recommendations as to which company makes good N scale products ...

I've done the same Ross except come from military modelling and history to build an small N scale switching layout after 30 yrs on the other stuff. I dont have it all but quality in plastic appears to come from Kato, Atlas, MT, and the likes- a lot of ppl put down Bachmann but for the basics their freight stuff is OK for me, expect to do some customising. Specials and specific types and/or paint jobs you probably cant go wrong with Atlas, MT, Intermountain cars etc.

I've bought mainly s/h and also have not been diappointed with a few Trix/Minitrix/Arnold/Rapido cars, but then I'm not a US resident so my 'taste' of things is not that personal (only 1 visit to US in 2002). If I could afford it these would be my top new purchase votes.

I recommend two sites for review- NDB - The N Scale Locomotive Database and N Scale Locomotive Encyclopedia. Many others, contact off list if you'd like a heap of bookmarks.
Regards, davww
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 16, 2004 11:45 PM
Well, Excellent advice from all.

Another word of caution. I too being a reformed HO guy, this N Scale thing does not tolerate the margins of error we had before. While that sounds like a dumb statement, you will be surprised to find that the N Scale stuff is very finicky about small mistakes in allignment. I mean, I could have the track in HO nearly perfect first pass... minor visual gaps, that would mean only a click in HO will completely derail N Scale.

You will spend more time bulletproofing your trackwork in N than you ever imagined in HO.

I agree with the HO planning sizes for N Scale deployment. It brings it all together more realistically. However, do not short change this advice and decide to reign in your minimum radius ideas. Huge Sweeping mainline curves are still needed to get those big consists to navigate. In N Scale you can pull a ton of cars with just a loco or two, their power to size ratio will astonish you... but if your curves are too tight, the tail of the train will try to pull the locos off the track. So, the middle of a really long cut will wind up in the scenery!

Welcome to N Scale! (PS - Buy a magnifier headset for some of your little projects. They will be worth their weight in gold when you have to clean your locos, or detail a new building.)
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Posted by Wdlgln005 on Saturday, February 21, 2004 1:54 PM
Welcome to N scale!

You have some good advice on keeping some Ho scale standards, in using 18" mainlines and confining tighter 9 3/4" trak to industrial areas. Clearances should be reduced to 2", as that give you 20ft clearance. Doubletrak mainlines are about 1 1/2". Use the Atlas trailer flats or hi-cubes to test.

Track: A flame war will start here between Atlas or Peco sectional flextrak and Kato unitrak. Bachmann EZtrak is ok for a small loop.

Locomotives: Atlas, Kato, Lifelike GP-20 split-frame or newer diseasels. Atlas has the best selection.
A lot of new Atlas, Model Power , MDC and Bachmann steam will soon be out.

The carfleet depends on whay you want to run. Selection from Atlas, MTL and others for freight cars is good. We need more passenger cars!

Have fun with your Nscale!
Glenn Woodle
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Posted by DSchmitt on Saturday, February 21, 2004 10:13 PM
The best equipment (locos and cars) now all come with MicroTrains or compatable couplers.

Kato and Atlas are best for main line diesel power. Intermountain is also a contender. For switchers the Life Like SW's are a good balance of price/quality..

I don't run steam, but the Kato, new Bachmann and the Round House have all recieved good reviews

The vast majority of the cars available in N scale are good servicable products, so don't hesitate to buy them if they are a car type and road name you want. You can often find "used" Bachmann and older Atlas and other brands of cars, at train shows, already converted to MicroTrains couplers for reasonable prices.

Recently there has been a revolution in detail, but also a large increase in price for the top of the line N scale cars. The older cars are still good. Replacing roof walks and brake wheels can make them fit in better with the new cars. Most of the detail is not really visible in a layout setting. [}:)]A friend of mine once motorized and ran a Hallmark Christmas ornament GP on an NTRAK layout. No one noticed.[:0]

Equip everything with MT or good quality compatable couplers. For most equipment conversion is easy.

I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.

I don't have a leg to stand on.

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Posted by ATSFCLIFF on Monday, February 23, 2004 6:31 AM
Welcome to N-Scale.
For diesel power I would recommend Kato and Atlas for good running, pulling power and detail. You now have good choices in rolling stock like Micro-Train, Atlas, Intermountain & Deluxe Innovations. If you are planning to run passenger service, Kato makes good detailed and smooth running passenger cars. For tracks I have been using Peco flexi & switches, it's not the best but with good ballasting it looks good. A good reference will be the product reviews found in the Model Railroader.
Regards,
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 23, 2004 5:43 PM
You might be happy to hear that N scale is going through some transitions. More steam is coming out (I'm not a steam head) and Athearn has entered the foray and many of us are waiting to see what is next with them.

Some thoughts. The above advise about brands is good, so I won't go there. Instead since you are new, make sure everything you buy is at least "DCC" ready (this doesn't mean the engine comes with a decoder, just that it can take a decoder relatively easy).

With Life Like, any up to and include the SW9/12 to their present releases are perhaps some of the great bargains out there, but they aren't DCC ready so be aware.

The Model Power Pacific has mixed reviews. Most like the engine but some aren't happy with it. The Bachman Connie is a great buy.

Track - there are only two in the running Atlas and Peco.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 24, 2004 5:02 PM
For track on a more versitile layout try and buy track with a plastic roadbed, it is very, very durable. ALWAYS GET MICRO TRAINS OR COMPATIBLE COUPLERS!! RAPIDO COUPLERS ARE A WELL OF NO RETURN!!
thanks...
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Posted by DSchmitt on Tuesday, February 24, 2004 6:22 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by mdemt

Well, Excellent advice from all.

Another word of caution. I too being a reformed HO guy, this N Scale thing does not tolerate the margins of error we had before. While that sounds like a dumb statement, you will be surprised to find that the N Scale stuff is very finicky about small mistakes in allignment. I mean, I could have the track in HO nearly perfect first pass... minor visual gaps, that would mean only a click in HO will completely derail N Scale.

You will spend more time bulletproofing your trackwork in N than you ever imagined in HO.



While generally I agree, I am sometmes amazed at what you can get away with. An N Trak module I built had a very visible kink in the branch line at one point[B)][:I]. The only train that didn't make it through turned out to have out of guage wheels[:(]. (This was at a NMRA National). The kink was the only place it derailed. When the wheels were regauged the train worked fine[:D]. I relayed the track after the show.

On another layout a connector track (between modules) inside a tunnel was left loose on one end and the modules were not properly leveled. There was a slight drop off at the end of the track. We ran trains counter clockwise all day with no derailments at that location. We discovered the problem when we tried to run a train clockwise. The train stoped very suddenly. CLUNK[;)]

It's been so long since of done HO that I can't comment on the relative time needed to "bulletproof" the track. It does get easier with practice however.

I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.

I don't have a leg to stand on.

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Posted by The Watcher on Wednesday, March 3, 2004 3:47 PM
Most manufactures today have pretty good products.

Micro Trains does not manufacture their locomotives, they are produced by other manufacturers and are then converted to MicroTrains couplers by MicroTrains.

I bought a Micro Trains Hershey set and it has a very good LifeLike locomotive.

I would definately agree though that getting all rolling stock with MicroTrains or compatible couplers is important. And, having at least easy DCC convertable locomotives is just as important.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 4, 2004 6:19 PM
If you are interested in modeling a modern era, check out Deluxe Innovations and Roundhouse(MDC). Both lines offer contemporary equipment that has great detail. Con-Cor has a nice line of autoracks and well cars. As for locos, everyone seems to be on the same page and covered that pretty well.

Happy Model RR
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 4, 2004 8:41 PM
I just installed a Digitrax DZ123 decoder in my Model Power 4-6-2 Pacific. It's pulling 6 cars (not counting the caboose) with no slippage. Granted, it's all on a level tabletop.

The company has improved their pickups, because of many complaints. In fact, my LHS was one of those who was instrumental in getting MPC to fix their design. I don't know who makes the motor, but in my case, it seems to be running very well - much better than the one it replaced.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 2:53 PM
I have found in the past that it was easier to use flex track for n-scale. when laying curves it is easier to solder two peices togather, then lay out your curve, then you don't get the dreaded kink in the curve.[^]

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