I am trying to put up my 1/8in masonite to 1x2 back supports for the benchwork. I am using 3/4in wood screws, but their top sticks out from the masonite. I have tried pre-drilling holes using 1/8, 7/64, and 3/32in bits, nothing seems to work. Please help!
TIA!
Lee
Seeing as the masonite has a hard surface it will not allow the screw to pull the head down snug into the masonite.
You need to drill a hole using a drill bit that can also drill a taper for the wood screw head to nestle into. Or, you can drill the hole as you did and then use a reamer to create the pocket for the wood screw to nestle into.
You need a countersink bit. This is a special bit with a wide head, angled like the head of the screw. But, with thin masonite you need to be careful that you don't drill too deep, or you will go through the surface completely.
You probably need to use screws with smaller heads.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Cigar for Mr. B!
Find a countersinking bit that makes a hole suitable for the shank of the screw you are using so that the screw still has something to bite into. As stated, beware drilling too deeply. You want the tops of the screws recessed just a fraction of a millimeter so that you can sand over top of them to smooth the surrounding surface if you need to.
An alternative is to use small brads or finishing nails driven with a properly set pneumatic driver, or nail gun. Then, putty or use drywall mud over all the tiny holes, sand when dry, prime, and away ya go.
Edit - Doug T said it, too.
Looks like this (for power drill)
or this:
Even a vix bit will work:
Just search Google or visit the Borg store. Good luck.
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Karl, I didn't know that those were called vix bits, but that is what I was refering to. Except that the one I use isn't awl-like in terms of the gradual taper. It is essentially a drill bit with the countersinking head component as you show. They work very well.
-Crandell
I just use a 3/8" drill bit as a hand reamer.
There's another alternative, which is use finish washers under the screws. A finish washer is cupped on top; the screw seats into the cupped part and gives a good-looking "finish".
Here's a site with a picture of the finish washers: http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=33142
Of course, after installation, you can always paint over the screw/washers and they almost disappear.
Hope this helps.
Darrell, quiet...for now
MisterBeasley wrote:You need a countersink bit. This is a special bit with a wide head, angled like the head of the screw. But, with thin masonite you need to be careful that you don't drill too deep, or you will go through the surface completely.You probably need to use screws with smaller heads.
yep exactly what I was thinking. Countersink bit should probably help after the hole has been drilled.
Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.
Daniel G.
At any hardware store for about $8, you can get a jig that consists of a pilot hole, counter-sink bit and a stop so that you get the perfect hole every time.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
I use one of those too..
A note that they are sold corresponding to the screw they countersink. So.. if you are using a #6 wood screw then you need a #6 bit. I bought a set of four #4-#10 I think for $13 at one of the home stores.
I tried to get away without one using self-tapping dry wall screws but the masonite was too hard to let the head sink in. Do expect to drill a few that end up being the wrong depth. THe ones too deep can be filled in later, the ones too shallow can be re-drilled.
Good luck
Chris
Hi!
As indicated, you need a countersink bit for masonite is a fairly hard substance. My next piece of advice may not be accepted so easily............ Collect all of your wood screws, put them in a nice box, bring to your workshop/garage/basement, and leave them there. Then go to Lowes/Home Depot and pick up a few boxes of different size deck / drywall screws. These will usually countersink themselves, bite the wood more aggressively, and definitely cost less.
Lastly, drill a 1/8 inch pilot hole to prevent splitting the wood. Personally, I use two drills, one for the pilot hole and one for the screwing.
Trust me on this one!
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
mobilman44 wrote:As indicated, you need a countersink bit for masonite is a fairly hard substance. My next piece of advice may not be accepted so easily............ Collect all of your wood screws, put them in a nice box, bring to your workshop/garage/basement, and leave them there. Then go to Lowes/Home Depot and pick up a few boxes of different size deck / drywall screws. These will usually countersink themselves, bite the wood more aggressively, and definitely cost less.
Its hard to find drywall screws in lengths smaller then 1" which can be needful if you are driving a screw into 1/8" masonite and 3/4" thick 1x2.
It should be noted, too, that drywall screws come in both self-tapping and "regular" tips as I discovered to my dismay when I found I had bought a box of the latter variety one day when I ran out of my heavily used 1-5/8" size.
Yes, the smallest available (in my search) is 1 inch, and the longest 3 1/2 inch. In the building of my layout (11x15 dual layer with only sheetrock screws used), I had a couple of situations where the 1 inch was too long and stuck out where one could get caught on it (ouch!!!). What I did was screw them in first, then remove them and then cut of 1/4 inch of the point using a sturdy line cutter. I only had a dozen or so of these to do, so it was no big deal.
Seriously, I doubt I would have built the layout without the use of sheetrock screws and cordless drills!!
You guys need pneumatic nailers.
I'll go all day without screwing.
Okay, you ask, what if you want to take the boards apart.
Cut the nails with a sawzall--faster than unscrewing.
Lee,
I'm assuming your driving flat-head screws, as these are the only kind one would countersink. I've used a countersink bit in my power drill to make vee-shaped cut's at the top of my Masonite screw holes. This workis fine but needs a steady hand to avoid running the countersink right through the 1/8 inch Masonite. If you're not familiar with a countersink bit, just ask at your favorite hardware store. The clerk should know what this is.
I've used ringshank soffit nails to attach masonite for facia.Countersink with a nail punch and I then skim coat with drywall mud to cover the heads. My backdrops are painted drywall. I've found 3/4" fine thread drywall screws at the local Menards.As a contractor, alot of the material I use OJT transfers well to MRR!
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
Nicely done, saronaterry, I love how the road is kind of stretched across the aisle.
Folks,
Thanks for your informative and prompt replies. It helped me nearly finish the work! I used a larger drill bit to create a hole in the masonite. That allowed me to drive the wood screw into the masonite and 1x2s behind it. No need for getting a special countersink drill bit. In fact, I used 1/8in drill bits to create holes for the drywall screws used to fasten the benchwork together. Doing that ensured the pine wouldn't split.
Cheers,