Newbie: A few questions about track

[austfox]

Hi!

I am new to model railways. I bought some track a couple of years ago, and am only just now getting ready to lay it down to a baseboard.

The track I bought was from my local store, and was the flex stuff (HO guage). It is marked with GT Italy on the bottom. Is this Atlas brand, as I couldn't find any reference to it on the net?

Also, what is the difference between Atlas 100 and 83, and I think there are more (55)?

I have also read in here about soldering track. Am I supposed to be soldering the track itself to minimise slight offsets, or soldering the joiners to improve eletrical flow.

What is the best way to cut the track?

Also, how exactly do I fit the track joiners? Do I need to trim them so they are not too long, or remove a sleeper (is that called a tie?)?

Sorry for all the stupid questions, but I want to reduce the mistakes I make at the beginning.

I've been reading up on adding the ballast, underlay, and painting the track, and can't wait to try it all... 

Thanks.

[Phoebe Vet]

100, 83, 55, etc is the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch.

Soldering is to ensure electrical conductivity.

Different people treat the joints in flex track differently.

Some people use these http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-599

Some people cut the tops of the end ties so they can slide the joiners on top of them.

Some people remove a couple of ties then glue them back under the joiners.

One person in here slides the movable rail into the next section so that the two rail joints are in different places. I'm not sure that he even uses joiners, or if he just solders the rails together.

I cut the spacers between the ties and slide them back, but I am considering trying that sliding rail, at least in curves.

 

[BlueHillsCPR]

what is the difference between Atlas 100 and 83, and I think there are more (55)?

As mentioned it refers to the height of the rail.  Code 100 rail is the heaviest rail.  Many experienced modelers do not use it because going by scale it is even larger than mainline rail on most if not all prototypical railroads.  Lots use code 83 for mainline rail.  Code 83 does look better in my opinion.

I have also read in here about soldering track. Am I supposed to be soldering the track itself to minimise slight offsets, or soldering the joiners to improve eletrical flow.

Solder the joiners to improve electrical conductivity and avoid joiners loosening over time.  Some may need to be left for expansion.  Run feeder wires to connect those sections of track rather than relying on the joiners.  Search Soldering Rails and you will find many threads on the subject like this one. 

What is the best way to cut the track?

Some use a razor saw.  Atlas sells one. Others use rail nippers.  Still others use their dremel tool but a flex shaft is pretty well a must for cutting rail that is fastened down already.  MLR makes a tool for holding the rails while cutting, avoiding damaging the track and helping to ensure a square cut.

Also, how exactly do I fit the track joiners? Do I need to trim them so they are not too long, or remove a sleeper (is that called a tie?)?

Joiners that come in a strip and are cut/broken apart often have a long tab at one end or the other that will interfere even with sectional track ties.  I cut those shorter.  In working with flex track the common practive seems to be to remove rails but cutting the "spikes" off the tops of the ties to allow the joiner to slide under, works as well.  The stagger technique on curves looks like a good idea.  Some searching will bring up many discussions on the subject.

Sorry for all the stupid questions, but I want to reduce the mistakes I make at the beginning.

There are no stupid questions just bad answers.  We were all beginners at one time. 

Have fun and,

 

[dehusman]

Also, what is the difference between Atlas 100 and 83, and I think there are more (55)?

The height of the rail in thousandths of an inch.  Real rail is measured in pounds per yard (at least in the US)  The different weights of rail have different heights.  Code 100 is very high, taller than 152 lb rail that was used by the PRR.  Most heavy mainlines use 130-140 lb rail which is roughly the size of code 83 rail (in HO).  Older mainlines and secondary tracks used 100-120 lb rail which compares to code 70 (HO).  Lighter or older tracks might have 70-90 lb rail  which is close to code 55 and really old or light use tracks might have rail less than 70 lbs (65 or 56) which is represented by code 40 rail.

I have also read in here about soldering track. Am I supposed to be soldering the track itself to minimise slight offsets, or soldering the joiners to improve eletrical flow.

Mayny people solder the joiners for electrical flow, which certainly helps.  I prefer to run a feeder to every 3-6 feet of rail.  Even more bullet proof.

What is the best way to cut the track?

Rail nippers or flushcutting pliers (Radio Shack).  If you don't have a hobby shop handy, they are sold at electronics supply stores to trim component leads flush with PC boards.  Normally less than $20 and very quick, needs just a couple quick swipes with a small file to clean the cut.  I have cut rail with a razor saw (if I messed up I and the saw snagged on the rail, it could pull the rail out of the ties, destroying the piece of track) and I have also used a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool.  The nippers are more portable (no electricity  or cords), can be used to do fine trimming and work well every time.  They are now my method of choice.

Also, how exactly do I fit the track joiners? Do I need to trim them so they are not too long, or remove a sleeper (is that called a tie?)?

I like to trim a tie or two from under the rail joint, put on the joiners, then sand a cluster of 3 or 4 ties to remove the 'spike' detail and glue them under the joint.

Dave H.

[tomikawaTT]

That, "Made in Italy," code 100 flex is compatable with Atlas code 100.  My sister picked up a couple of lengths at a yard sale - I laid it in a hidden staging yard.

100, 83, 55, etc is the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch.

Code 100 is actually too large to accurately model any track, but became pretty much standard for HO a long time ago.  Code 83 is accurate for a modern heavy mainline (133# rail) and code 70 is accurate for 1920's prairie mainlines and present-day industrial and branchline trackage (100# rail.)  Atlas code 83 has ties .17" thicker than their code 100, so the railheads come out the same height.

Soldering is to ensure electrical conductivity.

Different people treat the joints in flex track differently.

Some people use these http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-599

Some people cut the tops of the end ties so they can slide the joiners on top of them.

Some people remove a couple of ties then glue them back under the joiners.

One person in here slides the movable rail into the next section so that the two rail joints are in different places. I'm not sure that he even uses joiners, or if he just solders the rails together.

I'm the guilty party on sliding joints.  Once I've determined where the joint will be I trim the plastic spikes and tie plates off the flex ties and install a joiner.  I don't solder my rail joints, but do solder jumpers around them.  Incidentally, with Atlas code 100, the sliding rail goes to the inside on curves.

I cut rail with flush-cutting diagonal cut pliers before it's laid, and have cut a few rails in place with a razor saw.  I also file all the burrs off and cut a tiny bevel in the top inside corner of the railhead.  That way, if alignment is less than perfect, there's nothing for a flange to catch on to cause derailments.  If you can run the back of a fingernail along the inside of the rail and it doesn't snag on anything, you're good to go.

Happy tracklaying.

Chuck (trackwork fanatic modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[cacole]

Track with "GT Italy" on the bottom is Model Power track, sold primarily by Trainland/Trainworld.  We used it extensively on our HO scale club layout mixed with Atlas track and had no compatibility problems between the two brands.  I think Model Power track's crossties are actually a more realistic size than Atlas.  Once down and ballasted, it's nearly impossible to tell which is which.  The Model Power flex track is a little stiffer than Atlas, which is sometimes an advantage.

[selector]

You have been very thoroughly answered by very knowledgeable people. 

I would like to highlight to you that the matter of joining two pieces of rail together can be frustrating long after you think it is done.  Your rolling stock and locomotives will wobble or hitch going over an improperly constructed join.

First, if you solder, and many of us do here and there, particularly along curves, it takes skill and patience to do a good job.  Sometimes, that just means filing away excess solder atop the rail head or in the flange path on the inside of the head.  Wearing a magnifier and watching what happens when a four wheel truck removed or left over from a rolling item is a good thing to do.  With a finger pushing it and adding just a few grams of weight, watch for a wheel lifting or feel a pause in your pushing finger.

Secondly, if you use the metal sleeve joiners, you must account for their thickness when you restore any ties either by sliding them back into place along the rails or by sliding them in from the side because you actually removed them from the track section in the first place.  If you have a set of needle files (and you darned well should...trust me), use one about 3mm wide to file a channel in which the metal joiner can sit so that the rail head above is not kinked or forced upward into a little hillock.  That, for sure, will cause your rolling items to wobble and lurch.  On a curve, or near a turnout, that can be deadly and cause all sorts of problems.

[Anonymous]

     Atlas code 83 rail is slightly shorter (as in rail height) than code 100 rail. I think it is something like 0.017" difference, not that much. Codes are measured in hundreths of an inch. To me, the tabletop roundy rounder king, it doesn't matter, but I make sure that it is all the same code.

 I cut track with the Atlas Super Saw.

With flextrack, I cut off a tie off each end so the rail joiners can fit.

Hope that answers a few questions!

[dale8chevyss]

I have used flex track and wondered about the rail jointers as well.  Here is what I did.  I cut the ties back so I could get the rail jointers in (with joining two sections of flat track it leaves a 3 or 4 inch gap between the ties where there are rails and no ties) I then took a piece of scrap sectional snap track and pulled the ties off of it, ground the "spikes" off and then placed it under the missing section of track.  If done well, it looks seamless and even I can't tell where the track is joined. 

[Texas Zepher]

I have used flex track and wondered about the rail jointers as well.  Here is what I did.  I cut the ties back so I could get the rail jointers in (with joining two sections of flat track it leaves a 3 or 4 inch gap between the ties where there are rails and no ties) I then took a piece of scrap sectional snap track and pulled the ties off of it, ground the "spikes" off and then placed it under the missing section of track.  If done well, it looks seamless and even I can't tell where the track is joined. 

Eeee Gads.  If you just trim the part of the ties under the rail so that the rail joiner will go under without making a bump, you won't have the gap between ties to go back and fill in.   This really works well on a curve so that the rails joints can be staggard and will stay in gauge.

[austfox]

Wow! Thanks for all the replies. Every question answered!

It seems everyone has a particular way they like to do things.

I guess I will experiment with a couple of pieces of flex track to see the results. I was planning on doing this for laying the ballast, so will cut and join some as well.

 

[dale8chevyss]

100, 83, 55, etc is the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch.

Soldering is to ensure electrical conductivity.

Different people treat the joints in flex track differently.

Some people use these http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-599

Some people cut the tops of the end ties so they can slide the joiners on top of them.

Some people remove a couple of ties then glue them back under the joiners.

One person in here slides the movable rail into the next section so that the two rail joints are in different places. I'm not sure that he even uses joiners, or if he just solders the rails together.

I cut the spacers between the ties and slide them back, but I am considering trying that sliding rail, at least in curves.

 

 

Some people cut the tops of the end ties so they can slide the joiners on top of them.

 

yep that's what I did and it works well, can't even tell where the joints are.   

[dale8chevyss]

Wow! Thanks for all the replies. Every question answered!

It seems everyone has a particular way they like to do things.

I guess I will experiment with a couple of pieces of flex track to see the results. I was planning on doing this for laying the ballast, so will cut and join some as well.

 

 

I think that is one of the reasons why Model RRing is so much fun for so many people; there are many ways of doing one thing with similar results.   

[Capt. Grimek]

BlueHillsCPR,
Thanks for that link to MLR! There are some cool tools there that I haven't seen before. I was curious
about the curve radius tool though. The larger size only goes to 23 degrees. Is that only for N gauge?
I was looking for a 30"-36" tool but didn't see one.

I realize that I can use a string, stick and compass point, etc. but if one did this a lot the tool seems like a nice thing to have.

I'lll probably order some of their alignment gauges for cutting though.

[gjvjr50]

The 23" limit bugged me too   I was thinking of getting one but a little cheap er a frugal and thought of a yard stick with holes drilloed every inch

[Anonymous]

Same response here .... I was expecting at least 24" radius for the money.

The yardstick idea with holes drilled at 18", 22", 24" or what ever you need is a better idea than the string method.

Im also a newbie and loved reading the all the comments

Kent

[Phoebe Vet]

http://www.microtechscalemodels.com/HO_&_HOn3.htm