I am using Bachmann Nik Silver Easy Track, switches are somewhat of a problem, how can I fine tune them to give me 100% free of der-ailments. My next question is, which are the most reliable switches on the market. I notice atlas code 83 and 100 is popular. I am running all Broadway Limited Engines: GG1's and J1 Hudson, which where a little tempremental in the beginning, but run perfect after some minor tweaking. The only problem are my switches, how can I fine tune them. I tried filing down the frog a bit, bnut they still jump a hair. What is the best tool for this project?
Thanks for any input you can give.
http://cs.trains.com/forums/1254291/ShowPost.aspx
This thread might help.
All you need to "Fine tune" B-man track is a big hammer!
You'll never go wrong with Atlas track, or Kato for that matter.
Just remember, "You get what you pay for!"
pc
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
SpaceMouse wrote:You need to file the points, frogs, and joints. They should be very smooth. I found that I averaged about 45 mnutes per EZ track turnout to get them working. Then about 6 months later, I had to work on some of them again. Don't know why.
Because they are JUNK!!!!!
Which is about the time it takes to build one using Fast tracks jig. Which I by the way, highly recommend. I do not think that Chip disagrees either?
Magnus
Yikes!!!!!
I would advise that before anyone starts randomly filing their switches, that they buy an NMRA gauge and see what is out of guage on the switches. One of the critical dimensions is the "check guage" which is the distance from the face of the guardrail to the frog. In many cases that needs to "filled", not "filed". If that dimension is too large it will allow the wheels to pass behind the point of the frog. If it is too wide, add a thin piece of styrene to the face of the guardrail.
EZ track is pointed at the starter market. The curves and switches are very sharp, not intended for large locomotives, long cars, high speeds or long trains. They give you experience, but when you feel ready to "graduate" to something more sophisticated, consider a track system that isn't sectional track. That allows wider radius and more flexible track plan design.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Yes, misinformation got me into eztrack, but I was a g-gauge modeler for almost 30 years if counting my first train set, and I just started the HO scale layout about a year ago. Bmann eztrack is really not that cheap. I dont have any small switches, each one was over $50. I have so much of this track and to be honest it is fine on big radius and straights, i ahve it totally hidden with ballast and it looks great..I would hate to just toss my investment in this ez track, so i might just build my own switches, or go with Atlas or Kato in the near future, but for now i just want to file them.
thanks for allthe input
Dave, Chip means that the top surface of the frog may need shaving if it is too high, or the lands between the wings and guards are too high and must be reduced to keep the flanges from bucking up and over them. Also, the points must often be filed more finely so that the flanges don't pick them, plus the odd time a point rail is bent too much so that it is out of gauge upon purchase.
Chip and I have both commiserated in previous threads about these rather poor turnouts and how much work they need to be reliable. The fact that the points are hinged doesn't help much. In fact, over time the hinges take a pounding and work loose enough that the points can fall sideways and wobble. I had one delivered to me with the point detached entirely.
Finally, the longest EZ-Track turnouts extant when I could use them were roughly #5+, and worked well with all my engines since the substitution radius was in the order of 30" or better. I could run a BLI Niagara through mine at a fair clip and not have it complain.
-Crandell