quick advice sought: second level guard rails

[shawnee]

Well, I have the masonite and the circular saw is ready...going to install guard rails on my second level hidden staging area, k'now, so if/when the train derails it doesn't plummet to the cement floor...but I'm stuck of what would be the adequate size of these guard rails.

I've never had a second level staging before (this second level is 13" above first level, and well over 55" from the floor).  If a train derails, what is the minimum size of the rail tio stop it from doubling over and plunging?  Do model trains ever "double over"...y'know pile up and flip over one another on a constricted second level?   I want the rail to be adequate but not instrusive or block views so that I can fiddle the hidden yard.  My initial thought was 2 inch high (overall 2.5 inch high wall, since 1/2 inch of it needs to be fastened to the plywood floor of the second level).  Is that enough to steer any derail gently to the side?   Does anyone have rule of thumb for guard rails..?

Thanks...hoping to get these built up today...and done with my hidden staging then! 

[Johnnny_reb]

Well, I have the masonite and the circular saw is ready...going to install guard rails on my second level hidden staging area, k'now, so if/when the train derails it doesn't plummet to the cement floor...but I'm stuck of what would be the adequate size of these guard rails.

I've never had a second level staging before (this second level is 13" above first level, and well over 55" from the floor).  If a train derails, what is the minimum size of the rail tio stop it from doubling over and plunging?  Do model trains ever "double over"...y'know pile up and flip over one another on a constricted second level?   I want the rail to be adequate but not instrusive or block views so that I can fiddle the hidden yard.  My initial thought was 2 inch high (overall 2.5 inch high wall, since 1/2 inch of it needs to be fastened to the plywood floor of the second level).  Is that enough to steer any derail gently to the side?   Does anyone have rule of thumb for guard rails..?

Thanks...hoping to get these built up today...and done with my hidden staging then! 

Nope I've never seen a Model train pile up and flip over. As for a guard rail, one inch should be more then enough to keep any rolling stock or loco on your layout. That is unless your running the train at over 200 mph in scale speed into a 15inch radius curve at the edge of the layout.

[jrbernier]

Shawnee,

  I cut up 1/8" Masonite into 2" strips and attach it to my 3/4" subroadbed with construction adhesive.  I use my power brad nailer to hold it in place.  This seems to provide enough 'protection' in case of a derailment.  I also do this on 'hidden' trackage like tunnels....

Jim

[shawnee]

Thanks guys...that sounds like the trick.  Just wanted to be reassured that what I was doing was adequate, but not over-engineered.  I think I'll go with the 2" strips, which attached to my 1/2 base, will leave me with 1.5" rails.  Many thanks!!! 

[bogp40]

I know that you already have the masonite, but if this staging is at eye level, it may be a better choice to use strips of 1/8" acylic or lexan.  Just a thought, it is nice to be able to see through on spots like this. We use masonite for temparary sections and the lexan for permanant staging and tunnels. This piece is temp, but the one inside the hill will stay. It does help on those hard to see areas under the layout, in tunnels etc especially where you can only view the track at eye level.

 

 

[tomikawaTT]

Where I have to install them, I use fences that extend about one inch above rail height.  Some of my hidden track runs inside steel studs, rain gutter fashion, so those tracks don't need additional fences.

So far, I've used foam board on tangents and ordinary box cardboard on curves.  I'm reserving my Masonite(r) for fascia and valance construction.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)