Atlas Switches

[Anonymous]

I recently built a small layout with about 10 switches. I used Atlas switches when I built it becasue that is what I had lying around. They are not fery good quality, and I am looking to replace them. What would you guys suggest to replace them with that would be an exact fit (same shape, length, curve, etc.)? I also do not to spand to much on this, just buy something that will actually work. Any suggestions?

[dave9999]

That's gonna be tough. If they are snap switches, they are based on 18" radius. Most other
turnouts are numbered, i.e #4, #6. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, But only Atlas Snap
Switches can replace Atlas Snap Switches (?). Dave

[Anonymous]

If that is the case, then what kind of switch would most closely match the Altas switch?

[dave9999]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Train-Master

If that is the case, then what kind of switch would most closely match the Altas switch?

Your problem will be that anything other than an exact match will not fit your existing
track plan. The closest would be a #4 turnout, but will not be exact. And it's too much to "fudge". Dave

[Anonymous]

Does anyone know of a way to modify the Atlas switch in order to make it better?

[Anonymous]

Hi Trainmaster, What is the problem you are having exactly If you let us know maybe we can help. Keith

[IRONROOSTER]

A few things to look at and try are:
Get an NMRA HO gauge and make sure that the swtiches are in gauge through both legs.
Make sure that the switch is not warpped, i.e. flat.
Make sure that the points are tight against the rails.
File off the top corner of the points.
Notch the stock rails slightly so the points fit in a little.
Enjoy
Paul

[AntonioFP45]

Hello Trainmaster.

[:)]Dave9999 is correct.

You did not specify what code track you are using, but based on your info, most of us will assume that it's code 100.

I know exactly what you are going through! You might not have much of a choice but the solutions is not too overwhelming. In your situation, I would go with the Walthers/Shinohara switches. Ironrooster offers good advice, but Atlas switches are poor in quality and problems will crop up again. Avoid frustration. Shinohara code 100 switches or Peco code 100 switches are "top of the line"and look much more realistic, though the Pecos have a Europeon appearance. The radius for these quality switches will be slightly different and will alter your track plan.

Yes, it does cost money and you're likely on a budget like most of us here. But it's worth it!

[:)][8D]Visit a friendly model railroad shop and ask them to let you compare Atlas switches to Shinohara and Peco. Once you've decided which switch to go with, make the track alterations to your layout.

A little headache now, will save you a "migraine" later. Many modelers build layouts and a short time later, major or minor alterations have to be made (my wife's cousin is going through this now). I will be building a new layout in the near future. I have a bunch of Atlas switches in my closet that are in decent shape. I won't be using a single one! I'm planning on buying the Shinoharas.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the help. Yes, I am working with code 100, so good guess. I built with mostly flex-track, so slightly altering the track will not be much of a problem. I believe that my local hobby shop carries at least one of two switches that you mentioned. In the mean time, I will work on modifying them as iron said. Again, thanks for the help.

[Anonymous]

There are a number of back issues of MR (use the search magaxine index at the top of the page) that have articles about improving turnouts, even one specific to Atlas snap switches. There are some routine things that can be done to all switches to get them to work better. IRONROOSTER pointed out the best ones.

If it is a problem with rolling stock, one thing you might check with your NMRA gauge is the wheelsets. This can also lead one to believe that the turnout (switch) is at fault.

Andrew

[EL PARRo]

If your switches-machines don't throw hard enough, then try supplying more power to the switch. That will cause to throw with a little more power. I use 20v AC, but I've heard of people using as much as 28v AC.

[Anonymous]

Do you know where I could find a reasonably priced AC power source that supplies 15V - 20V AC for the switches?

[EL PARRo]

I use a cheap toy train powerpack that has 20v of AC output, but you could probably find something else that would work at Radio Shack.

[Anonymous]

Good. I have a cheap toy powerpack in my possession. It is only 18V, but it should work just fine. Thanks for the help.