Am I On The Right Track

[Anonymous]

My wife & I recently moved into our permanent home now . I've had a nice HO layout for some time . But now since we have extra space , I'd like to start out fresh & replace all track & turnouts & expand. Could any of you folks fill me in on what the "latest " best track to purchase & what type ( Brand ect. brass ect. Flex ect.) The biggest units that we run will be 6 axle SD-40-2s. & I'm not too worried about cost , Just reasonable . " Thank You "for your time.

[Anonymous]

I just made my first permanent layout. I used Atlas Flex-Track along with Atlas Snap-Switches (It's what I had). I did mine in Code 100 track, the stuff with black ties, but you can choose Code 83 for a more realistic look. I would have used the Code 83 track with brown ties if I had started from scratch, but everything I already had was Code 100. Depending on how long it has been since you built your last layout, you may not have heard of DCC. Basically, it allows you to not have to worry about throwing switches all the time.

[AntonioFP45]

Hello Stokerk. Congratulations on your move!

Been a modeler since the 70s. Just about to begin a new layout myself. If I may humbly suggest: Consider using the Walthers/Shinohara code 83 flex track, code 83 switch "turnouts", and code 83 "sectional" track wherever needed. Good quality and looks realistic. If you're comfortable with Atlas, the Code 83 flex and sectional track is also fine, however, I DON'T RECOMMEND the "regular" Atlas turnouts (switches) for the simple reason that the turnout leads (the rails that move) are "thinnly" stamped sheet metal that may cause derailment problems over time, plus the two "rivets" on the leads look unrealistic.

[GO WITH DCC!

I was a big "dcc naysayer" until I saw and got to "play with" a DCC demonstration layout at the spring, 2003 annual H&R Train Show in Pinellas Park, Florida. You can literally run 2 or more locomotives on the same track completely independent of each other ( I even accidentally collided an Athearn SD40-2 and a Broadway Limited GG1, HEAD ON!). Plus, because you have a constant 12 or 13 volts on the track at all times, locomotives respond so much better. You will have flexibility with sound and lighting features. I must have looked "goofy" but I spent nearly an hour blowing a horn, making brakes "squeal", and turning strobe lights, headlights, and Gyra lights on and off. I used to "fantasize" about these kinds of features back in the early 80s, now here they were! Regular motor control decoders are now cheap ($18 to $30). Combination Sound/motor control decoders from Soundtraxx are over $100 each but prices are expected to drop in time as the technology improves and other manufacturers enter the sound arena. Many of us are awaiting the introduction of the Tsunami sound decoder from Soundtraxx due this spring. Sound is reputed to be crystal clear.

For more on DCC, on your search engine go to Litchfield Station on the web and then choose the DCC University category when you get there. Great step by step info. In addition to selling dcc products at a discount, Bruce (Mr. DCC) performs high quality dcc decoder installations on your locomotives if you don't wi***o do it yourself. Samples pictures of his work are on the sight.

Hope this helps! God Bless!

[Anonymous]

Thank You "Train Master , AntonioFP45" for the info & your time , I have a little better understanding on what to use. I have been using a variety of tracks together & just want to be more uniform about it now . I've never considered DCC befor but now you've got my interest , "What the heck"......I might as well check it out . I might as well go all out & do it right this time. I know if I don't I'm going to do it later. We've got a "Huge" Mad City Model Railroad show & sale on Feb. 14-15. 2004 In Madison Wi. coming up so I can get a firsthand look at these opptions. PS. Don't worry about looking "Goofy" AntonioFP45, You should see me, I was writting down some of Train Masters info because my printer is down, & I spaced out & underlined a paragraph "ON MY SCREEN" & all I could find to jot this down was a Sharpe permanent marker , "Dumbo" would be more of a discription for me . "OHHH BOOOY " ya gotta just love this hobby................................"I Do"

[Anonymous]

Definately go with the DCC. For not too much more than a "normal" system, you can buy a basic DCC system. I personally have the Atlas system, but thats the only system my hobby shop had. It is a good system, but there are also similar systems from Digitrax and others. Shop around on the internet for details, but remeber, its best to support your local hobby shop.

[nfmisso]

For further info on DCC, see: http://www.dcctrains.com/tonystips/dccprimer/index.htm . If it is in your budget, get a radio throttle equipped DCC system; Digitrax and NCE, and ?? have this available.

For track, on your mainline go with code 83. Nickel-Silver ONLY. Walthers (made by Shinohara), Atlas, Peco, MicroEngineering are all good. The Atlas switches are not as good as the others. Peco just announced a line of US Prototype code 83 track, which is what I am going to use. I gained experience with Peco at http://www.comrail.org/ . COMRail uses code 100 Atlas flextrack with Peco switches (except one Shinohara), all of the Atlas were quickly replaced. On the few switches that cannot be easily reached by hand, Tortise stall motors are used.

Try to get 30" minimum radius, an around the walls "Nolix" design is great for this. Basically it is a very large helix.

See: http://www.broadway-limited.com/ I have some of thier N&W class A 2-6-6-4 steam locomotives, FANTASTIC, and they are coming out with an EMD SD40-2 soon.

Have fun, and feel free to e-mail me for more discussion.