Does anyone have a secret to undercutting ties to fit under rail joiners? Dremel seems to either melt the plastic if too fast, or take forever to cut if too slow, or I go too deep, or not deep enough. Xacto blade works, but I'm afeared of slicing off some flesh as well. In any case, they all have a less than desired look when done. Is there such a commercial product as underrcut ties?
Since I have around 500 feet of HO code 100 track, there are more than just a few ties I need for the rail joiners.
Thanks for your help. Ken.
Greetings Kenkal,
I use a pair of small wire nippers and then I sand the point left by using one of my wifes emery boards that she uses on her finger nail.......ssshhhh, don't tell her or I'm out of business!!!
I use a #11 blade in a hobby knife to get under rails that don't move, and a chisel-point blade (cutting perpendicular to the rail) where I can slide the rail aside. I have also used a very small triangular or square file on individual or paired ties which were then slid into place under the joiner.
Since I am a meticulous tracklayer I don't mind spending the extra time, even though all my Code 100 flex (about 200 linear feet of it) will be used for hidden track only. Visible track will be Code 83 flex, mostly concrete ties.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
tomikawaTT wrote: I use a #11 blade in a hobby knife to get under rails that don't move, and a chisel-point blade (cutting perpendicular to the rail) where I can slide the rail aside. I have also used a very small triangular or square file on individual or paired ties which were then slid into place under the joiner.Since I am a meticulous tracklayer I don't mind spending the extra time, even though all my Code 100 flex (about 200 linear feet of it) will be used for hidden track only. Visible track will be Code 83 flex, mostly concrete ties.Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I agree, the Xacto works great for those ties not removed. Yes it's not fast, but produces the best results. I will use a combination of the blade or chisel and a file to prep those that need to be replaced. Not all of the spike / plate detail needs to be removed, only just what interferes with the railjoiner.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
kenkal wrote: Does anyone have a secret to undercutting ties to fit under rail joiners? Dremel seems to either melt the plastic if too fast, or take forever to cut if too slow, or I go too deep, or not deep enough. Xacto blade works, but I'm afeared of slicing off some flesh as well. In any case, they all have a less than desired look when done. Is there such a commercial product as underrcut ties?Since I have around 500 feet of HO code 100 track, there are more than just a few ties I need for the rail joiners. Thanks for your help. Ken.
Well, here's one way:
http://www.atlasrr.com/Images/Track/Trackphotos/598.JPG
But what I do, is I turn the flextrack over. About 3 ties back from the end, I use a knife to cut the plastic piece that is hidden under the rail opposit the opening on the other side for spacing on two ties. Then I slide the ties back, install the joiners, and slide the ties back up against the joiners.I then take one loose tie, sand the guides off it, and glue it to the bottom of the joiners.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
I cut the ties completely off the flex track under the joiners. Then I take a scrap piece of flex track and remove the rails, then cut small sections of ties to fit in the "gaps" in the ties (usually groups of 3-4 ties) and sand the small pieces so they fit under the rail joiners, but putting a piece of 150 or 200 grit sandpaper on a flat surface and put the ties upside down on the sandpaper and moving the ties over the stationary paper. After painting, they aren't noticeable.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
I scrap the ties that have been removed and use Micro Engineering pre-stained wood ties to fill the gaps where the joiners have been installed. They will slide right under the track joiners and look really good.
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
kenkal wrote: ... but I'm afeared of slicing off some flesh as well.
... but I'm afeared of slicing off some flesh as well.
Sheetrock knife with new blade and kevlar glove to minimize the lost flesh. I have also used the "heat and settle" method mentioned above.
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
I've never actually understood why people do that. I'm pretty sure one can touch up parts of the track to match the ballast, probably saving time.
It's nice to know the end do exist spererately, saves me from buyng sectional track and using those ends for the flextrack.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
I remove the ties from under the railjoiners and use a small file to reduce the tie thicknessswo the railjoiners do not sit too high, then slip the altered ties back under the joiners. There are always scrap lengths of plastic flex track I can sacrifice for extra ties.
I prefer a triangular file to a flat file because it is stronger and there is less chance to bend or snap under hand pressure.
I have gotten cut several times trimming plastic ties with a hobby knife. I have never gotten cut or abraded using the file.
-Doug