I am thinking about using ez-track in the 36 and 33 in radius in a corner location. Above that section would be a background of a street and town and be approximately 5 inches tall and completely hide the two tracks. The issue is one of making that section mostly inaccessible for maintaining except to drop down the 5 in cover or lift off and even then it would be a hard reach so my thought is bullet proof track in that location. It would be similiar to this from 48 Top-Notch plans of a terminal.
I am just thinking out loud at this point so imput would be helpful. I am thinking the terminal yard would be spaced away from the wall by a couple feet with maybe a pop up place to stand if needed about where the water tank is shown.
So my question is ez track great to work with or go back to flex? And are there jointers to reconnect to flex code 83 or is this a cut and solder to ez track. Does ez track need electrical drops soldered every 3 ft for DCC?
Any ideas would be helpful. And thanks for any advice.
I would avoid the unnecessary work and just take your time on the hidden area when installing the flex track. To gain access to that area, use the cookie cutter method in the corner so you can reach stuff from below.
I doubt that you could duplicate that plan with EZ track--well maybe you could if you increased the dimensions by 25%.
I have issue with EZ track for other reasons as well. It is too hifh for loading docks. When the turnouts fail you have to pull it to work on it, etc.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
I think SpaceMouse said it best in the thread linked below.
http://www.trains.com/trccs/forums/1185133/ShowPost.aspx
Over time, I have found that joints is where things can go wrong. EZ-Track has lots of them. Flextrack keeps joints to a minimum. I very purposefully used only full lengths of Code 100 flex in my tunnels since they are bears to get at. No derailments....well, two actually, in nearly 15 months of running, and they were due to expansion issues...at a joint. I fixed that problem, lemme tell ya. I routinely run my "limiteds", headed by either a Niagara or a Pennsy Duplex, through them at high scale speeds.
Also, as Chip alludes, flex has a highly apt name. Nothing comes together exactly as the plan says it should. That slightly tighter or looser curve that even an 18" section of flex can afford you closes things up very nicely indeed.
-Crandell
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
jeffrey-wimberly wrote:All the track on my layout is Bachmann nickel-silver EZ-Track. I lay it as level as I can and solder all the rail joints. If there's a place that I need insulating gaps, well, that's what Dremel tools are for. If you know that your curve is going to be the same radius as the EZ-Track you're looking at, then go ahead and use it. Just make sure it's level and tight and that all the rail joints are smooth. I file the joints smooth if I find a little bump.
What do you use for switches EZ Track or another brand?
Thanks for the replies.
I figure tha since it will be mostly covered that it would be better for running some larger equiptment on with less trouble. I may try a section or two out first. Plan to use flex in the other areas.
don7 wrote: jeffrey-wimberly wrote:All the track on my layout is Bachmann nickel-silver EZ-Track. I lay it as level as I can and solder all the rail joints. If there's a place that I need insulating gaps, well, that's what Dremel tools are for. If you know that your curve is going to be the same radius as the EZ-Track you're looking at, then go ahead and use it. Just make sure it's level and tight and that all the rail joints are smooth. I file the joints smooth if I find a little bump.What do you use for switches EZ Track or another brand?
jeffrey-wimberly wrote:All the track on my layout is Bachmann nickel-silver EZ-Track.