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HO layout design

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  • Member since
    April 2003
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HO layout design
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 2, 2004 7:33 PM
The time has arrived! I have a space 13.5 ft x 24.0 ft to work with.[:D] I even have a 5 ft square space off to one top end / side for a helix. I love to run trains continuous however like the idea of waybilling in the future. I would like some ideas from those of you more experienced in design then myself. Anyone have a track plan that would give me the best "bang for the buck"[?]

I figure that an "E" design would be best and to use the helix space for more mountainous elevation running. Man, to finally have the space for a double mainline would be the creme of the top.[:)]

Any ideas? Please send them here or to my e-mail address. Thanks!

Michael
mrgarske@yahoo.com
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  • From: Elgin, IL
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Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, February 3, 2004 8:40 AM
13.5'x 24' sounds a lot like the space I have for a layout (12x25). I was able to get a three-level Nolix design in that space, even though I have to share the room witht he furnace, water heater, and a big freezer.

I'd personally stay away from a helix. If you want a mountainous layout, give a Nolix design some thought. With a Nolix, the benchwork IS the helix, constantly working it's way upgrade. You can easliy create areas of the mainline that have stiffer grades than others, creating helper districts or bottomlands. And instead of having a train hide out in a helix for a considerable amount of run, operators will be able to see their trains for the entire run. I've got a 225' mainline on my three level Nolix, which works out to about four scale miles of track.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by ndbprr on Tuesday, February 3, 2004 9:43 AM
I started to send this and erased iit and decided to send it after all. I think your 5' x 5' space is pushing it for a helix subject to train length. Your maximum radius is going to be about 2.5" smaller to allow for overhange making it 27.5" or 55" diameter. so in every 173" you have to rise 4"minimum. This is about a 2.25% grade which may be too steep for the size of your trains. I think you should test to see if it is pratcical at that grade before committing to one. You could be ok if you plan short trains. Most equipment will take the curvature. It just seems steep to me for some reason.
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Posted by nfmisso on Tuesday, February 3, 2004 7:56 PM
Michael;

I would like to second Ray's suggestion. My space is fractionally larger. My plan does include two helix. but only to access the staging.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 4, 2004 7:52 AM
I don't realy see why you want a helix exept to acess posible staging tracks. You can easily start biulding without the helix and then add one later if you want.
  • Member since
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Posted by nfmisso on Thursday, February 5, 2004 11:34 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by TrainBuff101

I don't realy see why you want a helix exept to acess posible staging tracks. You can easily start biulding without the helix and then add one later if you want.

You had better plan on it from the beginning, they take up a great deal of space....
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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  • From: Elgin, IL
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Posted by orsonroy on Thursday, February 5, 2004 1:53 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by nfmisso
You had better plan on it from the beginning, they take up a great deal of space....


Which is why I opted to stay away from helixes in the first place. I knew that to get any sort of decent mainline run (more of a priority to me than switching), I'd have to go multideck. So the first thing I did was decide on a minimum radius of 30" and started looking for where to put a helix. The footprint of a helix with 30" curves is at least 62", or just over 5 feet. Add in room for access, transitional curves to get into and out of the helix, and all the construction time to build the darned things, and helixes quickly become a PITA. I realistically couldn't find anywhere to put the thing, which is why I decided on the Nolix.

Having the entire layout does mean having to accept some compromises. Mostly, the layout becomes a walk-in desing, so you'll either have to deal with a duckunder or some sort of movable access point. I opted for dropdowns, which are working surprisingly well. With a Nolix, your layout also becomes one constant grade, meaning that you'll have to really watch your gradient math. Once you factor in flat areas for towns and the resulting steeper grades to get back to the ruling grade, you might be overtaxing your motive power (I did!).

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

  • Member since
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  • From: San Jose, California
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Posted by nfmisso on Thursday, February 5, 2004 2:45 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy


.....resulting steeper grades to get back to the ruling grade, you might be overtaxing your motive power (I did!).

Isn't that a good excuse to have a Y6 and A on the front of, and Jawn Henry pushing, a 25 car train? [:D][:D][:D][:D]

Or if you are into those internal combustion things; a trio of FM TM up front, and another pushing.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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Posted by CBQ_Guy on Friday, February 6, 2004 2:16 PM
Personally, I suggest you check out and join the following:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ldsig/

...so that you make only NEW mistakes!

Good luck,
"Paul [Kossart] - The CB&Q Guy" [In Illinois] ~ Modeling the CB&Q and its fictional 'Illiniwek River-Subdivision-Branch Line' in the 1960's. ~

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