Hello everyone,
Just a simple (probably stupid) question here. I bought some buildings at the Dupage Co. Train Show in Chicago and I've run into a stumping point. I bought the ADM Grain Elevator and I can't get the decals to come off the page. Aren't they just like stickers, peel off and stick on? Can someone reply with what I may be doing wrong? Or do I have to glue them on the building?
Thanks in advance!
Nic
No, decals aren't like stickers. Typically, they're what are called "water-slide" decals. First, hold the paper at an angle and you can see where the edge of each decal on the page is. Cut around these with scissors to separate them. Take a bowl of ordinary tap water, and immerse the decal in it for 30 or 40 seconds. Transfer the decal over to the model, and it should slide off the paper pretty easily and on to the model. It's best to lay the paper-side down on the model and slide the decal off, so it will not fold back on itself or curl up.
For a better look, use something like Microscale's "Micro-set" as a "wetting agent" on the model to get a better transfer, and "Micro-sol" to help the decal settle into the cracks and climb over the bumps on uneven surfaces.
After you're happy with the way it's on, you should spray it with some sort of sealer (Dul-Cote for a flat finish, or a similar satin or gloss finish, depending on your preference.) This will permanently affix the decal to the surface, and protect it from handling.
Oh, and there are no stupid questions. I'm sure someone else will read this post and think, "Oh, that's how you do that."
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
The decals aren't stickers. They are a thin film that disolves with a setting solution like microsol. To use them you cut out the decal as close as you can to the lettering or design. Then soak the decal in water until the decal slides of the backing paper. Slide it off the paper with tweezers and onto the model. After getting it aligned correctly, gently blot off the excess water and apply the setting solution. Allow it to completely dry. Then dulcote the model to seal the decal on. Also decals work best over a gloss finish, so if you used flat paints it's best to glosscote before decalling. Decals applied over a flat finish can silver and the film may not correctly adhere. I guess you could cut out the decals and glue them on but for a more realistic painted on finish using setting solution is best.
Chad
[Edit-Mr. B you beat me to it!]
I'm scared to try!!!
Trainman24 wrote: I'm scared to try!!!
If you want to practice, go to your local Wally World and pick up an inexpensive plastic model car or airplane kit. NASCAR and military plane models are better because they come with a lot of decals.
Generally, your railroad-specific logos and stuff are going to be in the form of the wet transfer-type decals (see http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT for example). From what I've seen so far (which isn't much), the dry transfer stuff is really only good for generic lettering and numbering - basically sheets full of alphabets in various type fonts and colors.
Dan Stokes
My other car is a tunnel motor
I'll try it
The Old Man wrote:Are dry decals, such as those from WS, a better way to go? When I was a kid I use to have major trouble with wet decals.
Dry transfers can work well on flat surfaces, but getting them into the proper position can be difficult. Water slide decals can be moved around before they have set and also will streach over cast in details (particulary when a setting solution is used. If a dry transfer is placed wrong all you can do is remove it and try again with another dry trasfer.
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
Nic, once you get the hang of the decals they aren't too bad to work with and they look pretty good. What is already posted here is a great guide for you to follow. I think the biggest challenge is alignment. Once you get your decal in the right spot, I would definitely recommend a setting agent as previously stated. There are products to help it settle onto the surface and details of your structure and there are agents to help it adhere as it dries. Also if you end up with some type of flaw or tear in the decal when you're attaching it, (as long as it isn't too bad) you might be able to work that characteristic into the weathering of the structure. Good luck!
Dan
Oh, thats how you do it.
haha, i needed to know that with building this one Revell bakery kit i bought.