Latex calk for Track??

[DONFLA]

Building a new 2' X 8' HO shelf layout  (switching)  have 2 inch blue foam glued to 1x4 inch plywood  trying to keep the whole thing light and movable.  I have always used cork roadbed and like it in my other layouts with code 100 flex track.  But thinking of going to Code 83 for looks and not using roadbed this time.  I know a lot of guys like the Latex calk for putting down track.  Questions   Does it hold as good as glue?  when spread thin?  and will it also act as a sound barrier if I don't use roadbed on the Foam?

Thanks for your help,   DON

[Seamonster]

It holds very well even when spread thin.  The trick is to get an even coating over the entire area under the ties.  It needs to be thin enough that it doesn't ooze up between the ties.  I use it almost exclusively to attach my N scale cork roadbed to the foam and the track to the cork.  It hold tight.  I have found another advantage is that if I need to remove the track I can do so by sliding a putty knife under the ties and pushing it along.  That frees the track quite nicely.  Removing the cork from the foam is another matter.  The foam breaks off and comes up with the cork.  If you attach your track directly to the foam with latex and ever have to remove it later the foam will be damaged and it will be hard to clean off the bottom of the ties.

As for sound transmission, I'll let others speak to that.  Some find the foam noisy, some don't, some find cork noisy, some don't.  It's better than cork directly on plywood.  I think what creates noise the most is the ballast.  Once it's glued down, it's hard and will transmit noise.  That's just my opinion, though.

 

[saronaterry]

Hi. I like PL300(for foam, made by OSI) for track and roadbed. Same as the first response tho, it's tough to remove the cork. I've found the track will come up OK.I apply it very thin and just enough to hold everything. Track nails or push pins help 'til the PL sets.

Terry

[Anonymous]

Another option is to use the clear silicon / latex caulk. Holds like anything. Cheap too. Just my .02

[Blind Bruce]

I use latex caulk and agree with Seamonster. It holds even when very thin. And, yes, the foam comes up attached to the cork.

My only suggestion is to use caulk of the same or near color as your ballast. That way if some comes up, it won't show as much.

Happy ballasting

[ctyclsscs]

Just to throw in a different suggestion - I hate to use caulk since I always seem to have problems controlling the flow from a caulking gun. So I've been using either Weldbond or Tacky Glue to hold track down. They both come in squeeze containers, which IMHO are easier to use and recap. They dry clear (so color isn't a problem), they cleanup with water and stay flexible when dry. At first I was a bit skeptical about them holding up, but that was over ten years ago. My layouts have traveled all over the country, sat in autos that were extremely hot and cold, yet the track has stayed put.

Jim

[NevinW]

I started to use caulk to glue down track on my new layout and it works really well with Micro Engineering track.  It has been very fast too.  I will never go back to the old methods.  You can use different colors depending on what your ballast color is going to be and there will be less contract in the thinly ballasted areas.  I am using beige as my railroad uses dirt as ballast. -  Nevin Wilson

[DONFLA]

Thanks for the advise!  Is there any special name brand that works best or just any Home Depot or Lowes latex calk?

 Thanks Again,  DON

[tomikawaTT]

I've used HD and Ace Hardware house brands, and Dap, and have had good results with all of them.  I've used clear and white caulk for attaching thin foam roadbed (cut from fan-fold underlayment) to my plywood subgrade, and grey caulk to secure flex track (and the ties of hand-laid turnouts) to the fan-fold underlayment roadbed.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[Medina1128]

As for brands, I found 4 packs of Mainstay latex caulk at Wal-Mart for $3.89 (a price I don't think Lowe's or Home Depot can touch.

[dadret]

I use the cheapest clear latex caulk I can find at Lowe's or HD. The Wal-Mart stuff is OK too but its sometimes hard to find clear caulk there.  I like the clear better than white.  Put it on from the tube then spread it thin with a putty knife or thin piece of card stock.  I don't think I'd use silicone based caulk as paint or glue probably won't stick to it. The secret us spreading it thin and don't get any under your turnouts.  I use thinned white glue on the cork roadbed as its cheaper but you still have the same probelm with tearing up the foam  if you remove it.  I repair the foam using a very thin coat of drywall compound.  I've never been able to sucessfully remove the track from the foam (I use Walthers Code 83 flex track) so if I move something I usually just replace the track and trackbed.

 

[DONFLA]

Thanks for all the help! Really appreciate it!

DON

[dknelson]

A fairly thin bead of caulk -- about as wide as a pencil -- from a caulking gun right down the middle of the roadbed can be spread flat and thin by using one of those "Your Name Here" dummy plastic credit cards that comes in the daily junk mail.  I use it rather like a wide, flexible (and disposable) spatula.    I use OSI's Adhesive Caulk (which is not the same as sealant caulk such as silicon) that comes out white, dries clear, and can be cleaned up with water.   I also use DAP. 

I apply mine a little thicker than some people suggest so that it DOES come up between the ties and while it is still "wet" I spread ballast on it, tamping it down lightly with an old piece of cork roadbed.  That provides the base for further ballasting.

I also try to spread caulk (and then ballast) along the 45 degree edges of the cork roadbed because the prototype angle is not 45 degrees but more like 30 to 20 degrees.  I use the credit card to create the more accurate angle.

Dave Nelson

[n2mopac]

Another option is to use the clear silicon / latex caulk. Holds like anything. Cheap too. Just my .02

Stay away from silicone. You will have trouble getting paint and glue to stick to it later--it is a lot like teflon in this regard. I buy the cheapest pure latex caulk I can find--it all holds fine. Many promote clear or colored, but I dont' find it makes any difference. Lay a small bead (I'm working in N scale). The size of the bead is controlled mostly by how much of the end you cut off of the tube tip. Cut it very small. Then, knock the bead down with a putty knife, leaving a very thin layer approximately the width of your ties (less is ok, it will hold). My layout is sectional, so I drive one track mail in each end to keep it firmly in place if dismaltled. I then push pins in every 2-3" to hold in place while the caulk dries. Leave it over night and you're done. DON"T FORGET to mark where your swithch rods will be and DON"T CAULK there--otherwise your switches will be guled in one position.

Ron

[Anonymous]

 The silicon/latex is paintable and or glueable

Another option is to use the clear silicon / latex caulk. Holds like anything. Cheap too. Just my .02

Stay away from silicone. You will have trouble getting paint and glue to stick to it later--it is a lot like teflon in this regard. I buy the cheapest pure latex caulk I can find--it all holds fine. Many promote clear or colored, but I dont' find it makes any difference. Lay a small bead (I'm working in N scale). The size of the bead is controlled mostly by how much of the end you cut off of the tube tip. Cut it very small. Then, knock the bead down with a putty knife, leaving a very thin layer approximately the width of your ties (less is ok, it will hold). My layout is sectional, so I drive one track mail in each end to keep it firmly in place if dismaltled. I then push pins in every 2-3" to hold in place while the caulk dries. Leave it over night and you're done. DON"T FORGET to mark where your swithch rods will be and DON"T CAULK there--otherwise your switches will be guled in one position.

Ron

[Seamonster]

Thanks for the advise!  Is there any special name brand that works best or just any Home Depot or Lowes latex calk?

 Thanks Again,  DON

The cheapest latex caulk you can find.  Go for clear then you won't have to worry about any colour showing.

 

[tstage]

Thanks for the advise!  Is there any special name brand that works best or just any Home Depot or Lowes latex calk?

 Thanks Again,  DON

Don,

I went with DAP Latex caulk: $2 per tube @ Home Depot.  Although I haven't used it on my track yet, I have used it to hold down my cork roadbed on foam.  Works great!  And, if I need to repair, change, or replace a section (and I have), a putty knife and some careful prying pull it up cleanly.

For the cork roadbed, I applied the caulk with a caulk gun then spread it thin with the putty knife.  I found it very easy to work with.  In 45 min. the roadbed was secure.  In 24 hours, it was set it place.  I layed bricks on top for even pressure.  The caulk also makes for a nice gap filler.

Tom