Flextrack curve radii?

[Kevin Beeler]

Hey guys.

I am going to be re-building my layout from scratch using code 83 flextrack (brand undiecided), and I have a question for those of you that do/have used flextrack. What method/product is the best for making correct curve radii with flextrack. I'm sure you could always say "that's a good enough curve for me", but if you WANTED to maintain a SET curve radius, how would you do it?

Thanks for your input. 

[Bighurt]

Brain fart but there are templates available.....

 But I can't find any at the moment, you could cut premeasured, IE compass drawn templates out of masonite and use these over and over again.  That's my plan anyways.

You could do the same with PVCX but it cost more but will last forever.

Cheers

[IRONROOSTER]

I draw the curve using a beam compass I made out of some scrap wood.  I made a template for the easement.  Then laid cork roadbed using the lines drawn as cnter lines.  The laid flex track in the middle of the roadbed, curving it as I went and sighting along it to make sure I had smooth flowing easement and curve.

Enjoy

Paul 

[steinjr]

Hey guys.

I am going to be re-building my layout from scratch using code 83 flextrack (brand undiecided), and I have a question for those of you that do/have used flextrack. What method/product is the best for making correct curve radii with flextrack. I'm sure you could always say "that's a good enough curve for me", but if you WANTED to maintain a SET curve radius, how would you do it?

Thanks for your input. 

 Depending on how much space you have available on layout.

 If you have enough space: one thumb tack, one piece of string as long as curve radius, one pencil. Put thumb tack in center of curve, draw curve on plywood/foam, put track along curve, fastening temporarily with nails and weigh down as the latex caulk sets.

 Another way: draw curve on paper (using a computer), put carbon paper on layout (carbon side down), put paper with curve on top, trace track position down to layout. Lay flex along curve, fastening as you go.

  Or did I misunderstand your question ?

 Smile,
 Stein

 

[bogp40]

Hey guys.

I am going to be re-building my layout from scratch using code 83 flextrack (brand undiecided), and I have a question for those of you that do/have used flextrack. What method/product is the best for making correct curve radii with flextrack. I'm sure you could always say "that's a good enough curve for me", but if you WANTED to maintain a SET curve radius, how would you do it?

Thanks for your input. 

 Depending on how much space you have available on layout.

 If you have enough space: one thumb tack, one piece of string as long as curve radius, one pencil. Put thumb tack in center of curve, draw curve on plywood/foam, put track along curve, fastening temporarily with nails and weigh down as the latex caulk sets.

 Another way: draw curve on paper (using a computer), put carbon paper on layout (carbon side down), put paper with curve on top, trace track position down to layout. Lay flex along curve, fastening as you go.

  Or did I misunderstand your question ?

 Smile,
 Stein

 

If you're wanting to swing an arc but need a center that is off the layout temp set a board or brace for the center. Place a nail in the center. Swing the arc w/ a stick, rod or my preference a tape meausure. The small slot on the hook of the tape allows to hook the nail head.

[tomikawaTT]

Howdy, Kevin,

My personal (but by no means patented) technique is to lay out my curve on card stock (including spiral easements,) marking the lines for the ends of the ties.  I cut out the resulting template, caulk it to my (foam) roadbed, then caulk the flex to the template, temporarily anchored laterally with track nails and weighted down with moderately heavy objects (soft drink cans and battery packs for cordless hand tools.

Three useful tricks:

1. Pre-bend the flex to approximately the proper curve before trying to anchor it permanently.
2. Take a small bevel off the top inside corner of every railhead at every joint - if a flange can't pick it, that flange will stay between the rails.  (Selector has christened this, "Chuck's Commandment.")
3. Stagger the joints so no two are exactly opposite one another - greatly reduces the possibility of joint kink.

I personally use grey latex caulk to anchor the flex track (Atlas code 83 concrete tie.)  That way, if your ballast is less than perfect the bald spot won't be obvious.  Once the caulk is set, the track nails could be removed, but I'm too lazy to bother.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - concrete-tie flex and hand-laid specialwork)

[Medina1128]

I used Atlas RTS  program to print out sectional track full size. The only drawback is that the widest radius available in Atlas sectional track is 24". I used the program to print out my turnouts full sized, then using a diluted white glue mixture, I brushed it on, then glued the template to my foam base when I get them where I wanted. Then, it's just a matter of connecting them using flextrack. For the curves, I found a company (now defunct) that had styrene templates, for both track AND turnouts. I traced them onto 1/2" plywood, then cut them out with a jigsaw.

 

[Phoebe Vet]

 

http://www.microtechscalemodels.com/HO_&_HOn3.htm

http://www.geocities.com/rodneydlux/hotools.html

 

[mobilman44]

Hi,

I did the following before starting on my 11x15 HO layout, and it turned out to be one of the best track laying "tools" I have.

Get a 1/8 or 3/16  inch sheet or 4x4 piece of plywood, although hardwood might work out just as well or easier.

Take a large compass (or a tack on one end of string and a pencil on the other) and with the compass secured at one corner, draw semi circles in one inch increments.  As 18 inch was my minimum, and 36 in the maximum, I drew semi circles from 18, 19, 20,............. 34, 35, 36 inch.  Then, mark each lines radius (on both sides of the line)

Then, I cut the pieces out on a band saw with a relatively narrow blade, and ended up with several semi-circles in one inch increments.   In example, the first one has one side of 18 inch radius and the other of 19 inch radius and so on.

This may sound like a lot of work, but it really went fast with the bandsaw and frankly I was amazed at how much I used them.  And not only was it good to mark our curves, but also if you put a couple together side by side you cold lay out dual trackage with equal distance apart thru out the curves.

FWIW !!!!!

Mobilman44 

[ndbprr]

There used to be a company that may still be around called RIbbinrail that made a piece of aluminum in different radii to lay between the rails when spiking it.  It was about 4" long in HO and held the track very well.  No reason why you can't make your own.  Just put a sheet of paper over a piece of flextrack bent to a given radius and rub a pencil accross the top of the rails.  the you can make a piece of wood that will just fit between the rails to hold the track while you spike it in place.

[JulesB]

Hey guys.

I am going to be re-building my layout from scratch using code 83 flextrack (brand undiecided), and I have a question for those of you that do/have used flextrack. What method/product is the best for making correct curve radii with flextrack. I'm sure you could always say "that's a good enough curve for me", but if you WANTED to maintain a SET curve radius, how would you do it?

Thanks for your input. 

What I did for 24" radius curves is draw 90 degree 24" radius curve on a heavy piece of cardboard from a space heater box. Then I cut it out with a pair of scissors. Close enough. If your using cork roadbed the stuff sorta blends nicely. I do however draw straight sections first and lay my template down leaving 1/2" distance between the straight section and template. This is crucial for easments. Then I trace around the cardboard template. I then take the tip of my fishing rod, which when bent forms a nice transition curve. I tap a few nails in to hold the big end of the rod tip in line with the straight section and bend the tip around to the center of the radius. Then take a marker pen and trace the easment from the rod. It works great, you end up with a nice easment that gets progressivly sharper until it matches up with the 24" radius curve. Every one who see's em says "nice easments". You can go nuts with math and lines drawn on the layout and not do as well, been there done that. The darn fishin pole makes better easments. If you put some .020 strips of styrene under the outer rail you get a nice super elevation effect, looks nice but don't go overboard.

 

Jules

 

[wjstix]

You can also use Ribbonrail roadbed, it's upsom board cut in various radii curves from I believe 15" to 48", plus straights etc. Lay out the roadbed and when it's where you want it, nail it in place with some small nails, then lay the track on top of it. As long as the track is on the roadbed, it's laid to the radius you want.