Further pondering of my layout has me leaning towards a slightly crazy idea of a movable surface for my project. Since I am a tabletop wargamer and now a new model-train hobbyist, I ideally would have the train layout on top of my gaming table, able to be moved to the side in my basement while gaming, then put back immediately afterwards.
My basement is large enough to support this temporary move of the 5x8 tabletop across the room (on top of my dog's kennel and my painting table) but not large enough for 2 tables. Hence my movable idea.
My concept is to take the L girder I have read so much about for benchwork, but instead of placing the joists above the created L girders, I place them level with the girders. Then I attach the roadbed risers as described in the L-girder system and use a cork floor material I have excess of instead of plywood for the roadbed. Lastly, I plan to use a pink-foam construction between and above the joists to create the layout's terrain surface.
I am hoping this would result in a relatively lightweight layout that can be moved in the same room without damaging the scenery and trackwork.
Any advice, knowledge, opinions, etc... would be appreciated.
Have you considered an around the walls shelf layout? You might have room for both without moving. Maybe add a modular staging yard which could attach to the layout, extend into the room and be moved when you wanted to do your game activities.
JIM
Jim, Modeling the Kansas City Southern Lines in HO scale.
Welcome to the hobby and this forum! I have a layout on wheels for various reasons and find track alignment to be a problem if I do not put it back exactly where it was built. I work in HO and N would be twice as finicky. A good railroad is one you can have fun with and not one which is constantly giving problems.
Consider the last posters idea of an around the room shelf layout. The benchwork can be rock solid eliminating one source of problems for you.
73
Bruce in the Peg
Xcalibur wrote: Further pondering of my layout has me leaning towards a slightly crazy idea of a movable surface for my project. Since I am a tabletop wargamer and now a new model-train hobbyist, I ideally would have the train layout on top of my gaming table, able to be moved to the side in my basement while gaming, then put back immediately afterwards.My basement is large enough to support this temporary move of the 5x8 tabletop across the room (on top of my dog's kennel and my painting table) but not large enough for 2 tables. Hence my movable idea.My concept is to take the L girder I have read so much about for benchwork, but instead of placing the joists above the created L girders, I place them level with the girders. Then I attach the roadbed risers as described in the L-girder system and use a cork floor material I have excess of instead of plywood for the roadbed. Lastly, I plan to use a pink-foam construction between and above the joists to create the layout's terrain surface. I am hoping this would result in a relatively lightweight layout that can be moved in the same room without damaging the scenery and trackwork.Any advice, knowledge, opinions, etc... would be appreciated.
I have an 11'x12' layout on wheels. I can pull it out from the wall to work in back and then roll it back. I've never had any issues. At this size it takes two people to roll it (it's on carpet) but it rolls reasonably easy. The key is the rollers. I went with 70lb chair rollers. The entire layout has about 20 wheels on it.
Here's an ealier conctruction picture for part of the layout.
The bottom level is for a staging area and add stability for the legs.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm hoping that by reinforcing it with a full frame with the extruded polystyrene as suggested (similar to the picture posted, minus the legs)) that I'll be able to get away with the short move without alignment troubles, especially as I'm in HO scale.
I love the idea of the around-the-room layout, but I'm going to wait for that one. I have a path planned out in my head for such a beast, but I'm thinking that will be my expansion for the existing table - and a replacement for it - years down the road once I've completed my first project succesfully.
Just to be sure, this extruded polystyrene is the pink insulation material that can be purchased from home improvement stores in the 8+' lengths? From reading around various sites about it I'm fairly certain it is, but I'd better be sure = )
Xcalibur wrote: Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm hoping that by reinforcing it with a full frame with the extruded polystyrene as suggested (similar to the picture posted, minus the legs)) that I'll be able to get away with the short move without alignment troubles, especially as I'm in HO scale.I love the idea of the around-the-room layout, but I'm going to wait for that one. I have a path planned out in my head for such a beast, but I'm thinking that will be my expansion for the existing table - and a replacement for it - years down the road once I've completed my first project succesfully.Just to be sure, this extruded polystyrene is the pink insulation material that can be purchased from home improvement stores in the 8+' lengths? From reading around various sites about it I'm fairly certain it is, but I'd better be sure = )
Your right on the foam. The pink is Owens Corning and the blue is Dow. It's the same. Depending on where you live the size and thickness may vary. Generally in colder climates the 1, 1 1/2 and 2" is found even at the home centers.
I would recommend using a thin plywood on the joists then bond the foam. This way you will have a mounting surface under the layout for any switch machines, wiring etc.
Perfect, thanks again. On the same note, my original plan had been to 'cookie cutter' some unused cork flooring material (similar to laminate floor) for the roadbed, but I'm starting to wonder whether it's really necessary at all?
If I glue the standard cork splot bed material recommended in the books, etc... to the foam, and then nail the track to the cork bed will that be enough to ensure the track doesn't bounce or come off the bed when being moved?
Xcalibur wrote: Perfect, thanks again. On the same note, my original plan had been to 'cookie cutter' some unused cork flooring material (similar to laminate floor) for the roadbed, but I'm starting to wonder whether it's really necessary at all?If I glue the standard cork splot bed material recommended in the books, etc... to the foam, and then nail the track to the cork bed will that be enough to ensure the track doesn't bounce or come off the bed when being moved?
If you're using foam as the entire base, you won't be able to nail anything. Cheap Acrylic caulking is the way to bond the roadbed and then the track. You can use T pins and/ or weight the material overnight. DAP Alex Plus is a good caulk for this. There has been many threads on this method of construction.
I would still use a roadbed to give you the proper ballast profile. Any lower elevations, like drainage ditches, rivers and low contours can easily be carved out with a serrated knife, hot wire tool, drywall saw etc.
I'm working on a 6' x 2' layout that has bench work much as has been described above. Moving it quite easy as weight is not at all an issue.
Note that I attached the plywood top to the frame from underneath in case I ever want to remove it from the framework. If I attached it from the top and glued the foam down over the screw heads, there'd be no easy way to ever get the top off.
Here are two pictures:
mark
Thanks for the pics Mark, that looks like it's really coming along - nice work. I will definitely be picking up some 1/4" plywood to attach to the base as suggested. What material did you use to attach the track to your foam (the caulk as suggested by the other experts, perhaps)?
I really appreciate the advice everyone. I had thought of starting a weblog like I've seen from others, might be a good way to store all this knowledge so "when" I start on my second layout I can see everything I did the first time.
markalan wrote: I'm working on a 6' x 2' layout that has bench work much as has been described above. Moving it quite easy as weight is not at all an issue. Note that I attached the plywood top to the frame from underneath in case I ever want to remove it from the framework. If I attached it from the top and glued the foam down over the screw heads, there'd be no easy way to ever get the top off. Here are two pictures: mark
Mark,
I like your method of having a removable top.
The only thing one would want to consider is if they would need to do this. My experience in cabinet building for many years tells me that a much stronger box is created and will resist any wracking if the deck is glued and screwed. On of my favorite sayings is "The nails or screws are only needed until the glue dries".
For a frame that will be repeatedly moved, I feel it needs to to as strong , yet lightweight as possible.
Good point re screw and glue. I did that for everything but the top because I won't be moving mine much at all and do hope to incorporate this part into a larger layout.....someday.
markalan