Assuming you intend to place the turnout where an arc of the circles goes--It probably will not work like I think you are intending without changing at least part of the curve coming off of the turnout..
On the Atlasrr.com site, in a forum, I found an explanation that the “standard” #4’s are actually designed to fit on the curve of a 19” radius in place of one piece of sectional track. They are, therefore, the equivalent of #3.8 frogs, and right at 5” length. Whatever the actual frog used by them is, the divergent track is at a 15 degree angle—same as 5” section of their 19” radius track.
The #6 will be about an inch longer, and at a different divergent angle, thus too long and off-tangent from your loop.
The answer I recommend: —flex track for curves. You can come off the (roughly, 10 degree) divergence of a #6 and gently tighten the curve until you are back to the 19” radius.
I am making several assumptions here, so measure what you have to see if what Iam assuming matches.
Crews
Thanks for your help guys. I think I have solved my problem though. You must remember, I am relatively new at this and the solution turned out to be very simple.
The #6 Switch is exactly 1 1/4" longer than the standard switch. (I'm referring to the straight section). The straight section was all I was really concerned with. It was the connecting straight piece of track right at the middle of the bottom "X", under the crossover. The curved part of the switch takes a side line out into the open space of the "8" and ends.
In the layout plan it said to use a S4 section at the top end of the straight side. I didn't notice this until I returned from the store tonight with a Standard switch in hand and measured it side by side with the #6. It is exactly 1 1/4" shorter. The same length as the S4 piece I was supposed to add in. I just omitted the S4 piece and all is well.
I feel so stupid. Thanks for putting up with me.