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cleaning soldering iron

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  • Member since
    November 2007
  • 38 posts
cleaning soldering iron
Posted by this is it on Wednesday, December 5, 2007 7:12 AM

 

 Went to hardware shop today, enquired about cleaning iron, they advised hydrochloric acid.

 I use this for the swimming pool, so I did it.

 Cleaned it up alright but later when I went to use it, it shorted out all the power to the house.

 Forgot to mention had left iron on all night der.

 Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 God bless, Alan.

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Posted by CascadeBob on Wednesday, December 5, 2007 7:23 AM

I never heard of cleaning a soldering iron with hydrochloric acid.  I've cleaned the small pencil-type irons with copper tips by using a fine tooth file to remove debris and shape the tip if it has become pitted.  I then bring the iron to full heat and apply a small amount of rosin-core solder (the type you use to do your electrical soldering) to the tip to tin it.  I then quickly wipe off the excess solder with a wet piece of paper towel.  The iron is now ready to use.

Hope this helps,

Bob

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Posted by Phoebe Vet on Wednesday, December 5, 2007 7:58 AM

Bring it up to temp and wipe it on a wet sponge.

Most, though not all, soldering irons have replacable tips.

If the tip is getting pitted then you are probably using acid based flux.  Bad idea.

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

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Posted by CascadeBob on Wednesday, December 5, 2007 8:26 AM

My experience has been that the copper tips of the small pencil-type iron, e.g., from Radio Shack, will eventually pit even using only rosin-core electronic solder. I never use acid-core solder on anything electrical.

Bob

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Posted by tomikawaTT on Wednesday, December 5, 2007 9:27 AM

My procedure for cleaning both irons and guns (my major soldering tool is a 325 watt Weller hand cannon) is to remove the solder buildup and oxide with a file, heat, dip the tip in rosin flux, then tin with solder and wipe the excess on a damp sponge.  I would never use acid for ANY purpose involving soldering tools.

I don't know where your hardware store 'expert' got his information, but it's a safe bet that it wasn't in any kind of electronic repair course!

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

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Posted by Phoebe Vet on Wednesday, December 5, 2007 10:26 AM
 tomikawaTT wrote:

My procedure for cleaning both irons and guns (my major soldering tool is a 325 watt Weller hand cannon) is to remove the solder buildup and oxide with a file, heat, dip the tip in rosin flux, then tin with solder and wipe the excess on a damp sponge.  I would never use acid for ANY purpose involving soldering tools.

I don't know where your hardware store 'expert' got his information, but it's a safe bet that it wasn't in any kind of electronic repair course!

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

Suggestion:

Don't use that Weller gun on or very near a decoder or printed circuit board.  The big coil that enables it to heat up so fast generates a lot of magnetic flux which can induce a very substantial current in nearby circuits.  It won't hurt track, but it could fry a decoder.

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

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Posted by SilverSpike on Wednesday, December 5, 2007 11:02 AM

The damp wet sponge method works great! I make sure the tip is nice an hot and then run the tip over the sponge. Also, the sponge that I have has groves cut 1/2 way into it lengthwise that allow the tip to be drawn between the sponge, this really cleans it up nicely.

I bought this one at Lowe's Home Improvment back in March for around $29.00.

I was looking for a new one and when I saw the "Uses list" on the box the decision was made.

I have another smaller pencil type Weller soldering iron for the delicate electronics work.

Cheers,

Ryan

Ryan Boudreaux
The Piedmont Division
Modeling The Southern Railway, Norfolk & Western & Norfolk Southern in HO during the merger era
Cajun Chef Ryan

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Posted by selector on Wednesday, December 5, 2007 11:11 AM
I agree with filing and re-shaping.  Then tin the tip to protect it from further oxidation.  Also, Tim Warris of Fast Tracks fame simply uses a roll of paper towel to wipe his heated tip as it develops carbon on it.  He cleans it every minute or two without fail, and I have adopted his practise.  It leaves burn and blackened streaks on the paper towel, but when eyes are cast back to the tip, it is much improved in appearance...which is after all the purpose.
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Posted by JulesB on Wednesday, December 5, 2007 11:36 AM

 selector wrote:
I agree with filing and re-shaping.  Then tin the tip to protect it from further oxidation.  Also, Tim Warris of Fast Tracks fame simply uses a roll of paper towel to wipe his heated tip as it develops carbon on it.  He cleans it every minute or two without fail, and I have adopted his practise.  It leaves burn and blackened streaks on the paper towel, but when eyes are cast back to the tip, it is much improved in appearance...which is after all the purpose.

 

I agree. I build Fastrack turnouts.

Acid flux works good on any thing you can rinse off with water. If you add a half cup of baking soda to a bucket of water and rinse using it then clear water. This I do with the turnouts.

I decided to try it for soldering feeders to flex track, works like a charm. I can solder #20 AWG feeders to the track without melting or deforming the plastic ties. A very slight discoloration on the "bottom" of the tie's is all you see. I then rinse uder my kitchen sink spout, no green stuff monthes later!

Like Tim Warris say's. Tips are cheap, mine last for monthes, don't expect years!

 

JulesB

 

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Posted by tomikawaTT on Wednesday, December 5, 2007 6:25 PM
 JulesB wrote:

Like Tim Warris say's. Tips are cheap, mine last for monthes, don't expect years!

JulesB

If tips were expected to last for years, they wouldn't sell them two to a blister pack.

Phoebe-vet,

That oversize Weller is my weapon of choice for soldering feeders to rail, and rail into roll-my-own specialwork.  I have a temperature-controlled pencil iron for in-panel and electronic soldering.

One tool does NOT fit all.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

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Posted by richg1998 on Wednesday, December 5, 2007 9:41 PM

I have used this product for many years. The plated tips are still in good condition.

 I use a Weller soldering station set about 50% for heat plus a damp sponge or damp paper towel.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062721&cp=&pg=2&sr=1&origkw=solder&kw=solder&parentPage=search

I use liquid rosin flux, never acid flux. A clean joint, clean hot soldering tip and rosin flux has never failed me. Many people do not know how to properly clean acid flux solder joints and it will come back to haunt you. 

I use a high quality solder ($38.00 for one lb roll) which is used in high end audio systems.

It has excellant flow characteristics. I seldom mention it as some geezers go into a rant.

Rich 

If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.

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Posted by Jumijo on Thursday, December 6, 2007 8:11 AM

 

I think I'm heading to Lowe's for one of them soldering guns!

Jim

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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Posted by this is it on Friday, December 14, 2007 3:52 AM

 

Thanks for heads up chaps.

Bought new iron and everything working great!!!!!!!!!!!!

 GOD bless,Alan

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Posted by jim22 on Friday, December 14, 2007 10:19 PM

The tips on all my soldering irons are clad or coated.  These can and should be wiped on a damp sponge (maybe a sponge specifically for soldering as a celulose spong might melt) before use any time it's been sitting for more than a few seconds.  I've never had good luck using a file on any of these to clean/reshape as it removes the cladding.  When shopping for an iron, look for one with replacement tips next to them on the shelf.  I have a 25W weller, purchased at True Value Hardware for maybe $15,  but I can't find replacement tips aside from paying almost as much as a new iron.

Jim 

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