I have used both of these products at different times and they seem to work about the same and do similar things. Can any of you tell me what the differences are and why one of the products would or should be better than the other, and if so in what applications.
Johnboy out...........
James:1 Verse:5
The "Wobbly" is moving but pretty sluggish tonight.
from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North..
We have met the enemy, and he is us............ (Pogo)
I've used plaster of Paris on my layout mainly because it was easier to find. I have heard from many that Hydrocal dries harder, is lighter, and will take a bit more abuse than P-of-P.
In N-scale, the people in NTrak like Hydrocal because of these properties. The modules that utilize Hydrocal are lighter and will take more abuse. I imagine that mold work does better with Hydrocal too.
I don't think it makes much of a difference on permanent layouts, but I have noticed that my P-of-P mountains/hills do chip/dent pretty easily.
MAbruce wrote: I've used plaster of Paris on my layout mainly because it was easier to find. I have heard from many that Hydrocal dries harder, is lighter, and will take a bit more abuse than P-of-P.In N-scale, the people in NTrak like Hydrocal because of these properties. The modules that utilize Hydrocal are lighter and will take more abuse. I imagine that mold work does better with Hydrocal too. I don't think it makes much of a difference on permanent layouts, but I have noticed that my P-of-P mountains/hills do chip/dent pretty easily.
It's not that Hydrocal dries harder, it's not as brittle. You could say that Hydrocal is more claylike as opposed to being brittle like china. Veneering plasters like Unical and Diamond for skim coating are more brittle like Plaster of Paris. Some have excellent results with Plaster of Paris for casings, yet I do find that Hydrocal seems to work the best for more intricate molds with detail. Also, Hydrocal is much easier to cut, carve and shape once cured. For doing extensive carving, I will wet the casting as this will soften the plaster somewhat making tooling easier- besides being easier on the tools. I do a considerable amount of casting work where castings need cutting on a band saw and shaping on a disc sander to fabricate some of the retaining walls, abutments and creating caps and paripits even on some bridges and buildings.
These castings were all cut and fitted, the WS double portal was actually widened by using 2 portals cut slightly beyong centerline and refitted. The wall castings were Motrak(was a member) and built to match the WS stone. All caps and pilasters were cut and fit.
The stone arch bridge in the background was done the same.
This shows a long fitted retaining wall
Fitting of abutments, these are only dry fit in this pic, don't have finishe weathered ones yet.
I find Hydrocal a perfect product to use for all this type of work besides for the popular use for rock molds, roads and sidewalks
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Thanks MABRUCE and BOGp, for the info. That is what I was wanting.
Bogp. You should show us more of that layout. There is some amazing work there. Also tell us the size of it, it seems to go to the horizon in that picture.
Have a great day fellas.
Johnboy out.............
The "Wobbly" just wobbled over the hill.
This is a rather large club layout in a 10,000 sq ft building. It is about 1/3 completed at this time. I have been slacking in doing the scenery lately- there quite a bit of open benchwork.
Greetings,
I have been experimenting with many home repair products for mountains in HO scale and dioramas for my 1/35 scale WWII military collection and came up with the following list/ suggestions;
1) Acrylics-paint, Polycrlic wood sealer, tube type sealer, caulking and any other "home repair" product that you can sneak past your wife as a fix-it job product, of course when she sees the end result you may have to move out of the house and take your trains, hobbies, etc. with you. (just kidding)
2) When mixed with water the caulking will take on the appearence of pancake batter and you can add the water-based color paint of your choice as a base color for the ground. A simple form for the papermache' type 12"x 12" size of paper towels, newspaper or wrapping paper can be scraps of wood, stryrofoam or cardboard. I use florists board as a base as well. Soak pieces of the paper in the "batter" and apply to the forms, allow to dry for a few minutes and add more paper in about three layers, while the paint and caulking are still drying sprinkle a thin layer of sifted dirt onto the wet surface. If allowed to dry over night this should not crack. If it does simple apply a coating of the mix over the cracked areas. A final layer of ground cover made of dirt, grass, whatever you choose can be appyled over the completely dried first 2 coats. Finish the scene with the amount of details desired.
Good luck and refer to the 1000s of posts on this same subject. I personally don't use any of the products you mentioned as they take too much time to set up and are not as flexible but that is my opinion only.
johncpo
rlandry6 wrote:Instead of buying the high priced Woodland Scenic hydrocal, check your local stores that handle gypsum/plaster products. You should be able to find Hyrocal, 40lbs for around $25 or less..
Usless you only are looking for small amounts to do simple castings, I would also suggest buying the Hydrocal in bulk. My club buys 99# bags. One important thing to do with so much product is to repack the plaster in smaller containers or plastic bags. Even placing it in sealable 5 gal pails can have the plaster absorb moisture eventually rendering it useless. I find that by doing this makes it much easier to store, handle and use.