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Joining flextrack

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Joining flextrack
Posted by ndbprr on Thursday, January 8, 2004 3:22 PM
I've always used railjoiners. Does anybody just solder ends together successfully without them or are there other methods I should consider? thank you.
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  • From: Philadelphia
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Posted by michaelstevens on Thursday, January 8, 2004 4:25 PM
I recommend rail joiners and solder (on the outsides of each rail).
Remember to solder when the joints are straight and level -- set your curvature or vertical profile after the solder has cooled.

Enjoy !!
British Mike in Philly
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  • From: Along the Murphy Branch
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Posted by dave9999 on Thursday, January 8, 2004 4:30 PM
Use the rail joiners to keep the track aligned. Then solder the rails AND joiners. There may
be a way to solder the rails together without the joiners, but IMO, thats the hard way to go
about it (?). Dave
  • Member since
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  • From: Conemaugh Division
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Posted by Pennsy58 on Thursday, January 8, 2004 4:48 PM
Ditto on soldering them while they are straight. This prevents having an angle between the sections that has caused me problems. Pilots on steam engines always seem to be sensitive to even the slightest deviation on curves.
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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Thursday, January 8, 2004 8:47 PM
I agree with using rail joiners and solder. I cut my rail joiners in half which allows closer tie placement for the flex track.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Posted by ndbprr on Friday, January 9, 2004 1:04 PM
How do you cut them in half? Any method I can think of would either cru***hem or casue serious burs.
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Posted by michaelstevens on Friday, January 9, 2004 3:12 PM
[8D]
And I thought that I was cheap !!
[:D][:D]
British Mike in Philly
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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Friday, January 9, 2004 8:38 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by ndbprr

How do you cut them in half? Any method I can think of would either cru***hem or casue serious burs.

I use a cutoff disc in my dremel moto tool. I then slide it completely onto a rail starting with the non cut end.

I do it to get a better curve through the joiner and also to be able to get the ties closer to the joint.

I guess it also saves money[:D][:D][:D] something I'm always in favor of, but not my motivation here.

Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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  • From: Guelph, Ont.
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Posted by BR60103 on Friday, January 9, 2004 9:37 PM
I often have to trim rail joiners to fit into turnouts. I usually do it by pushing it onto a piece of rail to the required point and using rail nippers or a razor saw to cut off the excess. To cut it in half, I'd use 2 rails and the razor saw. After it's cut, use a file on the cut end and slide the joiner all the way onto the rail to open it out again.
I keep a piece of rail with the base filed to a slight point for stubborn joiners.

--David

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 9, 2004 10:06 PM
My opinion: Joiners should always be used. Solder by itself, does not have the strength to make a permanent joint. In all cases, solder needs a second, mechanical type of fastining. I remove a couple ties from the joint area to allow room for the joiners, then slide ties underneath the joint when done. I remove the "Spikes and Tie plates" from the loose ties, before positioning under the rails. I also attempt to solder the rails when the track is layed out straight. Also, I do not solder all joints and allow room for expansion every now and then, about the width of playing card. Sub road bed, road bead, plastic ties and nickle silver rail all expand and contract at differant rates. The expansion joints help relieve some of this problem.
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Posted by snowey on Saturday, January 10, 2004 2:31 AM
an alternative to soldering rails,that I've heard about but haven't used, is a product made by PECO, called. "track connectors".
These are hard to find, though. I had to search at 4 diferent hobby shops for them. Everyone thought I meant rail joiners, or else never heard of them. When I asked at the last place, I had to say "not rail joiners" and the guy had to special-order them for me.
"I have a message...Lt. Col....Henry Blakes plane...was shot down...over the Sea Of Japan...it spun in...there were no survivors".
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Posted by mls1621 on Saturday, January 10, 2004 10:22 AM
Rather than removing ties at the rail joint, I trim the tabs from the ties that attach them to the rails. Usually one tie on each side of the joint. This eliminates the need to add ties under the joint afterward.

Soldering the joint is not a problem using this method, and it looks great.

For curves, I'll route the first piece of flex track to the curve and use a cutting guide to trim the inside rail. Then join another piece of flex track and continue the curve.

I carefully pin the track in place to maintain the integrity of the curve and solder the joints. After soldering the first rail, I check the curve and, if necessary, reheat the joint to correct the curve if it has a kink. The second rail is then soldered and checked before moving on.

I'm modelling in N scale, but the principles should work in any scale.

Mike
St Louis
Mike St Louis N Scale UP in the 60's Turbines are so cool

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