Cement backerboard as a tabletop?

[Anonymous]

It comes in 3' x 5' pieces so no cutting required to make a 5x9 surface, just piece 3 of them together.  Plus it's waterproof.  Any cons to using cement board instead of plywood?

[ndbprr]

weight, not forgiving if bent in any way, hard to freeform. no structural strength so it won't hold screws.  Need a carbide bit to drill through it so you don't dull drill bits, will absorb water, impossible to cookiecutter, can't be bent for transition into grades.  Other than that it is possible.

[reklein]

Might work for a pool table though.

[Anonymous]

Might work for a pool table though.

Exactly what I had in mind.  I don't need to bend or form it, but the ability to hold screws does have me a little concerned.  I was looking at this stuff called Hardieboard..it's a little more solid and clean looking than other cement board, comes in 1/2" thickness.

[loathar]

Are you trying to avoid using benchwork for support? I can't think of any advantages to using this except not having to paint your roads a concrete color. All the cement boards I have seen flex quite a bit and would still need some kind of support.

[Vail and Southwestern RR]

Are you trying to avoid using benchwork for support? I can't think of any advantages to using this except not having to paint your roads a concrete color. All the cement boards I have seen flex quite a bit and would still need some kind of support.

I think it actually needs more support than other materials.  It isn't structural, just heavy, and it can handle water.

 

 

[reklein]

If you check at HD or your favorite Home improvement store I think you'l find a screw similar to a drywall screw made for cement board. Then you'll want to finsh the joints and you have a choice. either plaster of Paris or a product called Fixall, which is a white cement with no aggregate,Its a bugger to sand though. I think Pof P might be the ticket as its sandable.

[UP2CSX]

The stuff also makes a nice geyser of white dust every time you drill a hole too, and you'll be drilling a lot because carbide bit drills are the only thing that make it through cement backer board. You'll need a lot more benchwork to support it because it will crack very easily when laid horiziontally. I can't think of any rational reason to use this compared to plywood and foam.

[bogp40]

The stuff also makes a nice geyser of white dust every time you drill a hole too, and you'll be drilling a lot because carbide bit drills are the only thing that make it through cement backer board. You'll need a lot more benchwork to support it because it will crack very easily when laid horiziontally. I can't think of any rational reason to use this compared to plywood and foam.

Like others, I don't see it as an alternative to plywood for all the reasons noted. If you still plan to use the product, I would recommend the 1/2" "Hardibacker". The Hardibacker will cut with a carbide blade in a skillsaw, drill, hole saw and scroll saw (dulling blades like crazy though). The dust from this is horrendous- do wear a mask. Hardibacker is also available in 4x8s though not readily available from home centers. The double coursed screws are what is mentioned here, although I feel for your limited attachment use a drywall screw would work. The product is somewhat brittle, small pieces will crack especially whenfastened w/o predrilling.

The cement board that most tend to think of is Wonder board or Durarock. I don't even use it for any vertical wall surfaces anymore due to it's tendancy to crumble, and difficulty in cutting. Thinsetted tile, however, does hold better on Durarock than Hardibacker.

Other cons about the product is the board will absorb the water too radidly and many bonds may fail unless all the dust is removed and the board is dampened somewhat.

Just my opinions from using the product professionaly for tile work. I would stay with a quality grade of plywood for base or subroadbed.

[John Busby]

Hi pwp

This is an indoor layout??

That is the sort of matierial the garden railroaders use.

regards John