No pun intended....what is the best approach to building an elevated section of track? I have room now with an expanded layout area to bring a big loop around but it will have to go up and over a turnout which leads to a yard area.
I am using HO code 83 Atlas flex track.
For realism, how far from "center point" or main elevated section over the yard entry should the ascent begin from base level?.....4 feet.....5 feet on either side? I guess I am asking what is a working grade that would seem somewhat realistic?
Also, I know there are store-bought kit or set of kits of truss bridges and piers available, rather than me building up great slopes of scenery.....I am no dab hand at scenery and 6 - 10 feet or so of track elevated on piers and truss spans would most likely be acceptable to me. I'm not sure if this would appear too odd, however. What is a good brand/model/style of store-bought bridge and pier set to look into in your experience?
I'd suggest using Woodland Scenics foam risers. They provide a smooth and even climb. They are designed to be a base over which you build scenery. They're available in various percentage grades, depending on how much slope you want for your climb. The longer you can make the climb, though, the better off you're going to be.
Atlas makes a Bridge Pier set, too. These are simulated stone/concrete piers. They're designed to work with Atlas track. You control how steep a slope you've got be deciding how far apart to place the piers. These don't look terribly realistic, because the track is just hanging there between the piers. If you put the piers close together to give good support, though, then you end up with a steep grade, while spreading the piers for a gentle climb puts the piers too far apart, and then the track will sag as trains pass over. This is particularly bad on curves, because the longer outer rail will sag more, actually twisting the track under a heavy load.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I agree with Mr. B. on the Woodland Scenic risers. I've built inclines both ways, cutting out sections of foam and placing foam blocks underneath to get the rise, and using the WS risers. In the future, I'll use the WS products all the way. It's just soooo much easier and smoother.
JaRRell
on the Woodlands Scenics incline sets. they're great. I used a cookie cutter approach on my last layout, cutting out the plywood and raising it on risers. Was a pain. The WS foam risers are so much simpler, easy to use and forgiving. No calculations on grade other than making sure the base surface is level (which you'd do anyway). Very smooth. You can set them up, and if you don't like the look or made a mistake, move them and try them in a different place, no prob. Then glue them. If you still don't like them after the gluing, you can knock the glue off and try again. Just be sure wikth base sections (affixing the risers or inclines to base plywood, folr instance)to affix them on either side with hot glue in a manner you would with caulking a tub, rather than slathering glue across the bottom.
The "risers" are just continuous sections of raised track profile at a constant, say 4" high or 1" high or whatever. The "incline sets" are the ones that continually raise the track to those levels. The "incline starters" are just initial 2, 3 or 4% grade starting sections that raise the level by 1/2, 3/4 or 1 inch, respectively. To make your passing grade, I'd suggest the incline sets which are the most handy. All their foam system is great, and it's intuitive to learn how to use them together.
The 3% incline sets raise the level 4 1/2 inches in 8 feet, the 2% incline sets do that in 12 feet, as I recall. In any case, just check out the WS web site and they have all the particulars and will walk you through them.
Be careful though on the site selling you some of their other foam system's ancillary stuff. Some of the tools, like the "special pins" (haha!)or the hot glue are just regular cheap stuff you can buy at a local craft store repackaged and up-priced by WS.
I am a fan, however, of their "Foam tack glue" which is strong and seems to set well, dry fast and be particularly appropriate for foam adhesion. I use this to attach risers to other risers and starters to risers after the initial grade change has been made and I've finalized the arrangment of the base risers or incline sets (which I adhere with hot glue, caulk-style). The foam glue also works terrific with extruded (standard blue or pink sheet) foam, which is a primary use I'm making of it.
IF you are using plywood as your roadbed, and I recommend that you do, then you can easily and smoothly make inclines using the cookie cutter method. All you would need is a saber saw and a few pieces of scrap 1 x 2 or 1 x 4 to make the risers. Is infinitely adjustable and has a very low price, assuming you already own the saber saw.
Joe
Bear "It's all about having fun."