otoole8779 wrote:frist how would be the best way to get the spring wire through the little hole on the turn out
secound do i need to have all the switch move at the same time or can i have them on diffent swicths?
I have limitted space beneath most of my turnouts, and so for me the easiest method was to bend the wire as shown in the instructions and assemble the wire and tortoise before mounting it. I used the tortoise base template to mark where the mounting screws would go and installed two screws (on the same side) to make securing the tortoise easier. With a bright light above, I carefully threaded the wire through the hole in the turnout, then carefully slid the tortoise into the two screws and tightened them. I then had both hands free to install the remaining two mounting screws. The wire extended above the turnout by a good half inch, which I trimmed to height after I made sure the tortoise/turnout functioned as expected.
Even when I had the space to follow the printed directions, I found my method easier, even though I am near sighted and had to remove my glasses to thread the thin wire through the tiny hole in the turnout.
Wulfblat wrote: I have limitted space beneath most of my turnouts, and so for me the easiest method was to bend the wire as shown in the instructions and assemble the wire and tortoise before mounting it. I used the tortoise base template to mark where the mounting screws would go and installed two screws (on the same side) to make securing the tortoise easier. With a bright light above, I carefully threaded the wire through the hole in the turnout, then carefully slid the tortoise into the two screws and tightened them. I then had both hands free to install the remaining two mounting screws. The wire extended above the turnout by a good half inch, which I trimmed to height after I made sure the tortoise/turnout functioned as expected. Even when I had the space to follow the printed directions, I found my method easier, even though I am near sighted and had to remove my glasses to thread the thin wire through the tiny hole in the turnout.
I find using doublesided foam tape to attach the Tortoise during the alignment phase is much easier than trying to have three hands to put screws in. Once I have it aligned then I put screws in to hold it to the subroadbed.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
I use heavy duty industrial strength velcro, and as I thread (a stronger wire on the Tortoise) through the hole, it is easy to position the Tortoise or move it. I've found the Velcro holds the Tortoise just fine, and I do not screw it permanately. Not my original solution, but found in this forum on an earlier thread.
Good luck. Hal
I would agree whole heartedly with replacing the wire. Go with piano wire for sure. Second if you are using PECO turnouts we (club) always take out the retaining clip that is in the crossbar. It is not needed the tortise will hold the turnout in place and it does not have to work so hard to throw the trunout. The only place where we have multiple tortises on one swith is on our crossovers, you can get the kit that will let you run two turnouts on one machine. Personal preference comes into play here. Hope this helps.
Dan
baron9 wrote: I use nothing but tortoise switches on my layout and I found a quick and easy way to attatch them under the table to the plywood. first I drill a 1/2" hole throught the table top. Then I get a 1/2" wood dowell and drill a center hole through it. place the dowell through the hole and attatch the switch wire to the tortoise machine.Then the switch wire will be centered in the hole and can be easily attached underneath. Works well for me.
Well written, did 161 of them that way and not the first problem. We used Piano wire to replace any that we bent wrong but the original wire is fine on an Atlas Turnout. Peco is another animal.
I use a DPDT to control OR the DS54 from Didgitrax (only on the mains) We also used a bicolor LED to indicate the throw of the turnout. (LED goes between on leg of the dpdt and the Tortoise)
In the October 2006 Model Railroader, on page 34 of the Workshop column that month, MR published reader Bill Rooke's method--this involves using a guide rod--makes sense to me, and a nice diagram included--though the methods described in this thread also seem fine--just thought I'd throw this method out there for consideration.
Jim