Ok, getting ready to start my first bench work, and I'm giving steel studs alot of attention as they look to be the best choice at this time.
I have searched the forum for and most posts that deal with steel studs ( that I could find ) are a couple of years old.
I would like to hear from other people that have used steel studs, to see what their expereances are like, and get an idea of what problems they encountered, with using the steel studs with their layout.
Thanks,
Greg H. wrote:Ok, getting ready to start my first bench work, and I'm giving steel studs alot of attention as they look to be the best choice at this time.I have searched the forum for and most posts that deal with steel studs ( that I could find ) are a couple of years old. I would like to hear from other people that have used steel studs, to see what their expereances are like, and get an idea of what problems they encountered, with using the steel studs with their layout. Thanks,
Why don't you try it and give the forum a report?
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I considered using steel studs for my layout, but decided on conventional wood construction due to the difficulty of fastening the studs together and fastening anything else to them.
You're going to encounter a lot of drilling, riveting, and bolting if you use steel studs.
On the positive side, there's no chance of warpage or expansion/contraction due to changes in humidity like there is with wood framing, but the wood you use for your layout deck will still suffer from this problem.
Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.
cacole wrote: You're going to encounter a lot of drilling, riveting, and bolting if you use steel studs.
Drilling, riveting and bolting??? Where does that stuff come in???
Many years ago, I worked for a remodeling company, and we used steel studs for a project, and all we used was self tapping machine screws - and didn't do any of that other stuff - come to think of it, several years ago, I did demolition on a few walls that used steel studs, and it all that was used there was self tapping machine screws.
You can easily find self-tapping sheetrock screws to use with steel studs, the lighter guages only need normal screws. I work as an electrician in construction and deal with steel studs almost daily. WARNING---- Always be aware of the sharp edges of the studs! I tore a chunk out of my finger on the stuff last month and needed stitches. Also, if you run any wiring in the studs, grommets will prevent nicks in the wire causing short circuits and ground faults. Plastic grommetrs that are made for this are available at the big-box hardware stores. Plan on covering all exposed steel with a facia to prevent accidental cuts and snags when working or running on the layout.
It sounds dangerous, but wood has its hazards, too. Just don't rush things( my mistake!) and you will find it works well. Keep us posted on how it turns out.
If everybody is thinking alike, then nobody is really thinking.
http://photobucket.com/tandarailroad/
May 2005 Model Railroader has an article on it.
Enjoy
Paul
There's another advantage to steel studs ... they're actually straight.
I've used them before and am about to again. The layout will be in an unheated, unairconditioned garage. I'm guessing that steel studs and extruded foam will offer the most heat-cold-humidity proof combination I'm going to find.
Just watch out for the sharp edges, and use the plastic grommets in the existing holes when running wire. To attach the studs, I've used fairly heavy pop rivets and have had no problems at all. Need to remove one? Just drill it out.
As a long-time steel stud aficionado, permit me to insert my .
Anyone who wants to bolt or rivet their framework is welcome to do so. I have bolted a couple of spots that might possibly require disassembly to "sectionalize" the benchwork if my well-to-do nephew dies and leaves me a 4,000 sq ft basement with a house on top (I've already outlived my uncles and cousins.) For hard to get at spots I've pre-drilled screw holes - a good idea in wood, too. For places where I have a clear 90 degree shot, the 1/2" steel stud capscrews can and will make their own holes, thank you. (Just remember to set the power screwdriver to low torque, or they'll strip.)
As for attaching things, if you use the Westcott L-girder system (all screws up from below) the flat side of a steel stud can be screwed to anything that will take a screw. If you use the stuff in vertical mode for risers, ten seconds with tin snips and bending pliers will give a nice set of flanges, tailored to the (bottom of) the roadbed being supported. When screwing through steel into wood, it's a good idea to drill a clearance hole in the steel first. I haven't tried gluing foam to the top flanges of risers, but I have caulked foam to the flat (in)side of a steel stud, then laid track on it with more foam. One thing I HAVE done is build step risers to support roadbed for different tracks at different levels. Lots quicker than shaping two separate risers.
Cutting stud material calls for a rafter square and tin snips. IMHO it is quicker and easier than cutting wood, and a lot faster if you aren't using a chop saw. Assembly is easier if you use LOTS of clamps and position everything before driving the first screw.
One sly trick with steel stud material - you can position it open side up (like a rain gutter) and run a track down the middle, then support the stud at the ends. If it's a heavy-gauge type it will easily span eight feet. My longest is about four feet, limited by the length of tangent track between my curves.
As was mentioned above, the edges (and, especially, corners) of steel studs are SHARP. Also, trimming with tin snips will occasionally send small shavings flying. Use gloves and wear eye protection. Cuts will heal, but nobody stocks spare eyeballs.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on steel stud benchwork)
Added info - see my earlier post to this thread.
Just glanced at the article on building with steel studs in the 21 December 2006 newsletter. The author used studs for joists and steel cap channels for headers in traditional box frame benchwork, which is fine for small, light rectangular frames. However, I have found that cap channel has two major disadvantages:
That said, cap channel has one valid use. It can be run along the overhanging ends of L-girder benchwork joists to give a continuous structure to which a fascia can be fastened, just as long as the fascia line is straight. If it isn't, short pieces of cap channel at each joist can serve as screwing surfaces for a curving fascia. Of course, bending screwing flanges into the joist end would accomplish the same thing - but it's a lot harder to figure out just how to bend them for fascia attachment than for risers. (I let my joist ends fly free, then cut them to fascia length as part of the finishing process.)
Another thing I failed to note the first time around is how well steel stud material recycles. I have re-used everything from main girders to risers. Disassembly simply required removal of a bunch of short screws, which also recycled nicely.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)