Hi there
About to build a new layout and am tossing up between ME flex track and what I have used in the past, Shinohara.
Have purchased some ME to do a comparison and, quite frankly, can't see much difference.Would be interested to hear others opinions.
One thing I did notice was that Shinohara track comes with pre-drilled holes for fastening to sub-road bed but ME doesn't.
How are you supposed to fasten ME track to the sub-roadbed ??
Drill your own holes for rail spikes similar to Shinohara ??
What size drill would I use ??
Many thanks and appreciate your replies
cheers
I recently bought a fair amount of Micro Engineering (Code 70) flex track for my new layout. The store didn't have any Shinohara, which I had used in the past, and I wanted to get going on the project, so I bought the ME. I have found that a majority of these pieces have "burrs" or plastic mould outcroppings on the bottom of the track. Each piece has to be trimmed before installation to make sure it lays flat on the Homasote. This is not a huge problem, but is something I never encountered with Shinohara.
The absence of spike holes in ME track is also a drawback compared to Shinohara. I do not drill separate holes, but have just spiked immediatly adjacent to a tie.... not really a visible problem once the ballast is in. If you choose to drill holes, the drill size would be dependent upon the size of the spike you use.
If you can get Shinohara, I would recommend using that.
Bill
I had the same experience as Beach Bill -- the Micro Engineering ties sometimes have some flash that needs to be scraped away. I drilled a few strategic holes in the center of some ME ties but since I use the adhesive caulk method for laying rail, I simply pinned the track in place until the caulk set then removed the pins and plugged the holes with a bit of putty. On curves I do leave a few nails in place although both ME and Shinohara flex track hold their curve very well compared to the very springy Atlas flex track. I have to admit the spike holes on Shinohara are a much more subtle way to nail or spike flex track in place where it is needed.
I find I like the tie profile and size a bit more for the Micro Engineering track although if you lay the two makes of track together and ballast them the difference is not much. I also like the pre weathered option for lightly used sidings where the weathered but electrically conductive top of the rail adds to realism. Micro Engineering does sell their patina liquid in small bottles so you can weather your own rail that way. I use the patina on turnouts where paint might gum up the works.
Dave Nelson
dknelson wrote:Micro Engineering does sell their patina liquid in small bottles so you can weather your own rail that way.
Will that liquid also stick to and work on locomotive wheels? Can it be removed?
I haven't seen the flash problems that you guys have.
I do like the looks of the ME track, with it's oddly spaced ties and all. I also like that it doesn't have holes in the ties that I have to fill to make the track look right.
To secure it all you have to do is slap down a bead of latex caulk and spread it thin with a putty knife, then lay the track in place and put a small stack of magazines on it. Go have a nice dinner and when you come back just remove the magazines and run trains.
On my last layout I had ME track, but I went with Atlas code 55 this time. It looks good, but I miss those odd ties.
EBT15 wrote: dknelson wrote:Micro Engineering does sell their patina liquid in small bottles so you can weather your own rail that way.Will that liquid also stick to and work on locomotive wheels? Can it be removed?
I've heard it works on wheels too. It's like tool black. Conducts electricity but would have to be sanded off if you didn't like it.
I would think it would work with just about any metal that conducts electricity but it does take several applications to get the deep rusty brown that ME featured on their pre weathered track.
I do have to admit that for some reason on Peco turnouts the first few applications turn the nickle silver rail just a bit green. I assume there is perhaps a higher copper content in the nickle silver they use? Later applications change that to brown.