The suggestion above would probably be best, but if you just can't do that then try using smaller numbered turnouts (like No. 4's) to save space and maybe do a stub ended yard set at an angle on the plywood to maximize the usable space. It looks visually more interesting anyways when you don't have tracks that parallel the tables edge.
If you still can't make it work, maybe you ought to look into N scale?
ChevyMan724 wrote: Can someone help me. I've got a 4x8 piece of plywood and all i wanna do is make a freight yard. Can someone give me some ideas to maximize the space... some diagrams, pictures, or websites woud greatly help.. thanks *HO Scale*
Use three ways and double slip switches to save space. For example, I have two three way switches in my yard and instead of taking 4' of space for 4 #6 turnouts, I can do the same in 2'. It adds a slight amount of complexity but I like them.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
To answer your question, Kalmbach offers a book on that subject. Very Worthwhile. It is important that you understand the function of a freight yard, the arrival tracks, the switching lead(s), the departure yard or tracks, the rip track, caboose track and maybe an l.c.l facility.
Many yards were built on curves. If you place the yard with one end in the lower corner and end in the upper corner you will have a nice yard for the space available. You could even put an engine servicing terminal in the hollow of the curve.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
A compound ladder rather than a normal would help save some space.
In a normal ladder the first turnout is one direction (left) and all the rest off the diverging track are the opposite direction (right). In a compound ladder the first turnout and the first one on the diverging track are both the same direction. The straight track (off the original) then gets a turnout also.
Below is a yard that starts with a three way turnout. The bottom four tracks are the start of a compound ladder.
Here are some pictures of my yard. I am modeling N-Scale. This yard takes up about a 3' x 24' area. This will show you how much room a yard will take up. Using just a 4x8 sheet is going to make it difficult to have a yard in HO. I would take the recommendations from the previous people. I am a member of a club that models HO and the yard we have is in an area a little bit smaller then 4x8 and it holds almost nothing. Also it does not have everything a true yard needs.
I hope this helps.
Craig
If you "must" use a 4x8; consider two or three smaller yards connected by a common lead.
On my layout; I have one whole town in an area that is smaller. The long wall at the left of the layout is about 6 1/2' and the point where all of the yards connect is about 4' from the wall. By runing things at a angle on the 4x8, you could gain some track length. Warning - I model small team in the early 1900's; not modern stuff.
The actual track layout has changed slightly since this:
The lower town is what I am talking about.
BigRusty wrote: To answer your question, Kalmbach offers a book on that subject. Very Worthwhile.
To answer your question, Kalmbach offers a book on that subject. Very Worthwhile.
Actually there are 2 books:
A new one to be published in August is How To Build Realistic Layouts: Freight Yards. I have bought other books in this series, and they have been very helpful. $6.95 retail
https://secure.kalmbach.com/offer/default.aspx?c=if72m32
The other is The Model Railroader's Guide to Freight Yards, which probably was the one BigRusty was referring to. It is also an excellent reference. $18.95 retail
http://kalmbachcatalog.stores.yahoo.net/12248.html
Another very good book is Track Planning for Realistic Operation, By John Armstrong. It is now in a third edition, and is a very good book on general track planning; there is a section on freight yards. $21.95 retail
http://kalmbachcatalog.stores.yahoo.net/12148.html
Check at your local hobby shop or buy online
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch