Elevated Track

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  • Member since
    September 2002
  • From: Bucks County, PA
  • 83 posts
Posted by mkblk on Monday, October 20, 2003 5:15 PM
Hello jollygreen1,

I noticed a lot of views on this one and no replys, so even though I'm a newbie to this branch of the hobby (I read a lot!) I'll put in my 2 cents. A "rule of thumb" is going to be tough because G "scale" varies with the proportion. For example, Bachmann Big Haulers are 1:20.3 narrow gauge in which #1 (G) track represents a 3' narrow gauge and Aristo-craft or USA Trains are 1:29 or 1:32 in which #1 (G) track repesents a 4'8½" standard gauge!

Reply to this message with the "scale" that you're working in (anything from 1:8 [very rare] to 1:32 [standard gauge] and perhaps someone will be able to provide the proper clearances for you. If you subscribe to Garden Railways magazine, they'll send you an informational brochure "Beginning Garden Railroading" that clearly explains the differences between "scale" and "gauge". I realize you're building an indoor railway, however, the clearances are still the same.

More to the point, long trains will require long grades to achieve the height necessary to cross over. I am planning an outdoor narrow gauge (1:20.3, 3 foot) garden railway and have the same problem. I'm going to deal with it by first building a figure eight on my deck and raising the track by trial and error. If I need additional height, I'll try to elongate the loops. Remember curves also affect the pulling ability of your loco. My longest train will be only about 3 or 4 cars so I might be able to use a 3 or 4 percent grade which is pretty steep but acceptable for narrow gauge. It is definitely too steep for standard gauge.

Good luck!
Martin Kern
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,206 posts
Elevated Track
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 30, 2003 5:26 PM
What is the rule of thumb in taking a level track to an elevation crossing track down the layout. My Layout is 19' long and indoors.

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