Lionel G-Scale Wood Single Stall Engine House 8-82105

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Posted by ttrigg on Monday, June 12, 2017 5:28 PM

No painted joints, good. Stained joints, use a Q-Tip dipped in rubbing alcohol and gently rub it on all the surfaces to be joined. If the Q-Tip picks up any of the stain color then the stain has not yet cured in place. Set the project aside in a warm place with as much direct sun light as possible. Repeat daily until the Q-Tip is free of color. That's one q-tip dipped in alcohol one time and rubbed on all surfaces. Most likely only two or three times will work. Since rubbing alcohol is 90% water you need to give the water another day to dry. Now glue it up. As for the glue, TB2 vs TB3, both a very good. Use the one you have the most experience with. You said you have some TB3, since it has a longer curing time it will penetrate farther into the wood. After everything is glued up you will want to clean off any glue that was squeezed out of the joint by scraping or sanding. 

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Posted by Oakhurst Railroad Engineer on Wednesday, June 14, 2017 9:15 PM

Almost done.  Just have to glue on about 1000 shingles!  It was fun and took about a week of staining and gluing (so far).  Thanks for all of the discussion and suggestions!

Marty

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Posted by ttrigg on Wednesday, June 14, 2017 11:32 PM

Nice job.

Obviously there is some distortion in the first pic causing everything to look narrower at the bottom than the top. This is caused by lens size and aperture. Not much can be done with phone camera or the smaller digital cameras, DSLR can adjust the focal length, aperture and shutter speed. Quick fix would be to take this type of pic in landscape as opposed to portrait. 

Question; Is there a sill under the rails to span the door opening? A few years from now you may see some warpage and the door gap narrow or widen at the bottom. At that time (not now) you may want to add the sill to keep the door opening even. If and when you add the sill keep it narrow enough to fit between the ties so that you do not have to remove any ties.

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Posted by Oakhurst Railroad Engineer on Thursday, June 15, 2017 12:31 AM

You are right, just some distortion  in the image.  The opening is "square" and the doors fit just right.

No sill, but I see what you mean.  I will watch for that, as well as glue joint failures.  There are nails in the key wall joints, but not the roof attachment.

Thanks,

Marty

ttrigg

Nice job.

Obviously there is some distortion in the first pic causing everything to look narrower at the bottom than the top. This is caused by lens size and aperture. Not much can be done with phone camera or the smaller digital cameras, DSLR can adjust the focal length, aperture and shutter speed. Quick fix would be to take this type of pic in landscape as opposed to portrait. 

Question; Is there a sill under the rails to span the door opening? A few years from now you may see some warpage and the door gap narrow or widen at the bottom. At that time (not now) you may want to add the sill to keep the door opening even. If and when you add the sill keep it narrow enough to fit between the ties so that you do not have to remove any ties.

 

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Posted by Oakhurst Railroad Engineer on Wednesday, June 28, 2017 9:09 PM

OK.  All done with the 1000 shingles on the engine house.  I also decided to put shingles on the adjacent freight shed.  Thanks for your help and advice!

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Posted by ttrigg on Wednesday, June 28, 2017 11:07 PM

Looks good, nice job. I have a quick question. From this view I see the arc of a doorway. Does the kit come with the option of "door or wall"? If it has a door option I might go for one myself.

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Posted by Oakhurst Railroad Engineer on Wednesday, June 28, 2017 11:49 PM

ttrigg

Looks good, nice job. I have a quick question. From this view I see the arc of a doorway. Does the kit come with the option of "door or wall"? If it has a door option I might go for one myself.

 

The back wall has a wood insert to fill the arch.  It can be built with an open arch.  You would have to build your own 2nd set of doors.

Thanks,

Marty

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Posted by ttrigg on Thursday, June 29, 2017 1:08 AM

Thanks for the info. I hate to be a pest, but could you give me the base width of the shed. What I'm thinking about is my 'display track'. I have a length of track atop the fireplace mantel which I rotate different engines. From looking at your 'front view' pic I can see that I would have to trim off the roof eve on the backside of the building. I know that for stability I would need to run several 'floor stringers' under the rails between the ties. My house shakes a bit more than most. The bedrock of the artillery firing range at Camp Pendleton resurfaces just below my house. The 'sounds of freedom' deliver a 1.1~1.5 earthquake quite regularly. I can live with a small bit of overhang, just not too much.

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Posted by Oakhurst Railroad Engineer on Friday, June 30, 2017 9:41 PM

ttrigg

Thanks for the info. I hate to be a pest, but could you give me the base width of the shed. What I'm thinking about is my 'display track'. I have a length of track atop the fireplace mantel which I rotate different engines. From looking at your 'front view' pic I can see that I would have to trim off the roof eve on the backside of the building. I know that for stability I would need to run several 'floor stringers' under the rails between the ties. My house shakes a bit more than most. The bedrock of the artillery firing range at Camp Pendleton resurfaces just below my house. The 'sounds of freedom' deliver a 1.1~1.5 earthquake quite regularly. I can live with a small bit of overhang, just not too much.

 

10.5 inches ...

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Posted by ttrigg on Friday, June 30, 2017 11:37 PM

Thanks. Guess I'm going to have to follow daughters instructions. Use a 2x12 to nake a new mantle top.

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