I know there are a lot of variables to consider i.e. grades, length/weight of cars, wheels/trucks, curve radius, etc. Is there a fundamental rule/tip irregardless of such factors that anyone can share to safegaurd burning out a can motor? I imagine if I deliberately stopped the armature shaft from turning at all, and continually fed it power, at some point the armature wire would cook. But what if the armature could turn under considerable load for 45 or 60 minutes, or 8 hours? I can feel and smell the heat of the motor, and even note the engine slows to almost a stall while pulling a grade it had no problem with 10 minutes prior. Is that bad, or is this typical and inherent to a can motor? After the engine cools down it performs normally once again. What is the longest run time you run your engines on a hot day and is this even a factor? Bottom line is, I don't recall seeing anything in GR (or other publications) regarding motor stress failure in these regards. I know there is a fish market in Pgh that has been running the same LGB engine around the ceiling all day, 7 days/week, however, it is not dealing with grades or an ambient temperture above, perhaps 75 degrees. Is it possible to safegaurd with a fuse? I haven't seen many threads on burnt motor from operator abuse, so maybe I worry too much!
Thanks,
Stack
As a general rule, the wheels are designed to slip before you damage the motor.
That said, many years ago I was asked to bring my 1940 ScaleCraft 1:48 sand-cast bronze NYC Hudson and 10 heavyweights to run at shows, as the old-timers all knew the open-frame motors would do it all day long for 3 days.
The imports with can motors, 45 minutes to an hour.
What specific locomotive, grades, and loads?
TOC
I can only recall one USAT motor going bad. Not sure why.
I run my locos hard but not long. Based on working along at my job. If an engine slips I double or triple head it.
An engineer friend said, One engine CAN pull and stop the train, but two engines can control and maintain the train very well.
Ol Buddy Eric O.
Is it REAL? or Just 1:29 scale?
Long live Outdoor Model Railroading.
I only have about 125' of Aristo brass in a dogbone layout. So about 40' goes in a straight 3% downward path and the same for the upward return path. One of the loops are R1's (out of necessity), the other loop are R2's. All cars have standard size metal wheels without bearings. When friends visit, (for instance tomorrows 4th of July cookout) I'd like to just let a train run through the garden layout for the duration (6 hours approx.). Normally, I would get bored with any one consist running more than an hour. I run my logging engines at proto speeds (climax & shay) so they have no problem and operate cool and rock steady. It's my USA Trains GP-30, U25-B, and Lionel GP-7 that can't seem to take the heat. The GP-30 has towed 14 cars effortlessly for about 15 minutes, then it changes speed and smoothness. GP-7 can only do about 8 cars and heats up pretty good and begins to bog after 30 minutes. I guess it comes down to the run quality being relative to purchase price. I would also guess there are after market replacement motors? I really hate it when a manufacturer will charge 90% of the purchase price for a replacement part. Just curious how others run their engines and if any similar problems.
Thanks for responses!
Haven't seen that issue in USA dismals.
Of course, since 96 or 97 all the ones through here (or leaving here) have been radio/battery.
Those R-1's will get ya.
The drag can be unbelievable.
Try dragging just the rolling stock through the curve by hand.
Next question is:
What control system are you using?
And, if it has a choice of lineal or PW, do you experience this on linear AND PW?
With my electrics, I do not use an R/C system. I use a Bridgewerk Mag 15-SR power supply. I use an R/C system with my Ruby steamer on the same pike, but obviously a total different scenario. I've only been into Garden RR for about four years now, and can't get too elaborate because we may relocate one last time before I retire. The R1 section has been nothing but a headache, especially with the U25 and larger wheel base equipment. Putting together a consist has become a science in order to navigate trains without derailments! But you are right, there is a lot of drag through the R1 loop. I may just go ahead and re-excavate and put in R2. This would be a lot of work, and I hate the thoughts of the "down-time", all the time knowing the homestead may go up for sale within the next couple of years. I guess I can deal with shorter consists. I like to run the trains at slower speeds, and I think doing this may overload the motors and cause overheating (due to the R1)?
Don't work your loco's too hard and check whether you're operating on PWC or straight dc. I have passing loops on my set up and there are normally 2 loco's waiting their turn. I usually run one for a half hour or so and then run another engine. I used to work my LGB sumpter mallet hard until it cost me over a £100 for repairs.
Kim
Biggest wearout problem I've experienced is plasticgear/gearbox failure and traction tires. Never ever burned a motor, however the earlier Aristo engines did get a bit warm.....I RUN a good roster of USA and Aristo diesels, as well as others, on 2 to maybe 4% grades on my line, pulling upwards of 18 Streamline passengers, and freights up to 40-50 cars, 55 to 75 foot long trains, 2 to 4 engine consists----and mind you I luv to RUN my trains. Neighbors luv watching them Too...
And I, at times, do all of this, in HOTTT, HUMID, 90 Degree plus a good bit of the time, Sunny, "Hurricane Alley", Central Florida......Kissimmee. So, I would say, don't worry about the motors they can take it. It's the other components that I wish they'd/The Manufacturers would give more attention to in design and quality. I Got extra can motors just laying around long after the gear boxes fall apart......Byron
PS: I know there will be responses to not run them in the heat here so much, however I spent fall of 95 thru late winter of 97, back in home town, Akron,O assisting parents....And experienced the same wear problems, plasticgear/gearbox failure there also, had 750 foot plus layout in the backyard.
What is PWC? I'm using the Bridgewerks model previously stated, no remote devices, so would that be straight DC? I will probably go with the half hour recommendation. It's just that sometimes I'll put together a consist that runs so smooth and flawless I'd like to let it run all afternoon. As Bryon mentioned, the neighbors and cars passing by seem to enjoy watching them also. Good to know the motors are rugged. Shame the manufacturers won't produce beef'd up replacement gear boxes.
PWC--Paulse Width Control, If memory serves me right, Aristocraft came up with it to try and solve the motor overheating, it's like a filtered DC, no spikes....Ask them about it they might be able to enlighten you. I too use the Bridgewerks systems have two 25TDR's, plan to split the layout in half as I expand, as well as use a Mag 18 to power the two ladder storage yard areas. I am at present using some Loco-Linc RC control on Aristo stainless steel track, but am hearing talk about the use of DCC, don't know for sure what might be best.....ANY SUGGESTIONS FOLKS ??
Byron
Don't use PWC with LGB loco's, they don't like it one bit. Bridgeworks are now linked to LGBoA so I would be interested to know if the do give PWC as an option. Anyway, if your transformer has it there will be a switch giving you the choice of PWC or straight dc, I would choose the latter then you're ok for any loco. No switch? then you're on straight dc.
Cheers,
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