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converting aristo swithes(turnouts) to remote operation

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  • Member since
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  • From: Perth,Western Australia
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converting aristo swithes(turnouts) to remote operation
Posted by lyctus on Saturday, May 12, 2007 8:10 PM

Apologies for this basic(probably been asked before) question, but I have just acheived a site for a garden railway and I am dragging stuff out of storage for the great project. I have a few Aristo switches which are manual, and I have some #11299 remote units to fit. There are no instructions and a look at the Aristo web site yielded a pretty basic 'manual'.Can you help me please? What are all the connectors on the electric motor unit for ? just two according to the manual are required to switch the points ?? is this correct ? I would have thought 3 connectors (L/R/Common) required. What amps required to throw the points ? The 'remote panel thingy' seems a bit ho-hum ? I would heve thought a variation on a N/O Momentary contact push button would be a better remote system ? Your input will be appreciated, and sorry if this is a well trodden course......    

Geoff I wish I was better trained.
  • Member since
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  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
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Posted by cacole on Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:18 AM

You can download the AristoCraft turnout and remote control instructions from their web site.

http://www.aristocraft.com/techinfo/manuals%20pdf/switches.pdf

The main problem you will probably be facing is protecting the remote control from the weather to prevent it from shorting out if it gets wet.

I don't use remote control for any of my turnouts because of the problem of having to run wire to all of them.

Some people use air operated remote control switches, but I have no experience with them, either, and have never seen one in operation.

 

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Shire Counties UK
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Posted by two tone on Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 AM
Hi I use LGB turnouts by remote control, I drive every thing by the Train Engineer and its accessories. All electrics are under cover apart from turnout moters they are fairly robust and do not need attention unless a wire comes looseSmile [:)] Hope this helps

                Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life

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  • From: North Coastal San Diego
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Posted by Greg Elmassian on Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:49 PM

The Aristo turnout motors are more sensitive to junk fouling them up than LGB motors. You can adapt LGB motors to Aristo turnouts very easily, they actually bolt right on, but you might have to trim one tie if you put the motor on the diverging side.

I use air operated motors, after reading about all the maintenance people did on their switches. Zero maintenance so far.

 I've written up a few things about Aristo turnouts and air operated switches, peruse my web site www.elmassian.com.

Regards, Greg

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

 Click here for Greg's web site

 

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Posted by jerryl on Thursday, May 24, 2007 6:43 PM

  Do yourself a favor & go to the LGB switches NOW instead of LATER.   Replaced all of my Aristo. with LGB after 2 years.   The hardware was steel & the rivet that held the rail to the throw bar completely rusted away.  Took them all apart & substituted Stainless steel hardware For all the screws & rivets.  Then the contact strip under the switch went bad, had to run a wire. Also my 0-4-0 Lehman derailed every time I tried to switch it to the siding.

    Replaced them all with LGB 4 years ago & haven't had a problem since. I do use Aristo track & haven't had any problems with it.

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Posted by Greg Elmassian on Friday, May 25, 2007 7:14 PM

As per the manual, which you apparently have, just 2 are required for operation. The other three can be used to indicate which way the turnout is thrown.

I think the unit actually operates on DC, and the polarity is used to set the direction. AC input to the controller lets you send positive or negative to the switch.

As to current requirements, I would pop over to the Aristo site and ask there.

Regards, Greg

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

 Click here for Greg's web site

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Jones County, Georgia
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Posted by GearDrivenSteam on Saturday, May 26, 2007 10:08 AM
 jerryl wrote:

  Do yourself a favor & go to the LGB switches NOW instead of LATER.   Replaced all of my Aristo. with LGB after 2 years.   The hardware was steel & the rivet that held the rail to the throw bar completely rusted away.  Took them all apart & substituted Stainless steel hardware For all the screws & rivets.  Then the contact strip under the switch went bad, had to run a wire. Also my 0-4-0 Lehman derailed every time I tried to switch it to the siding.

    Replaced them all with LGB 4 years ago & haven't had a problem since. I do use Aristo track & haven't had any problems with it.

So, the Aristo and LGB track work pretty well together? I had wondered about that.  

 

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.
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Posted by hoofe116 on Sunday, May 27, 2007 5:03 PM

Greg:

I went to your site and looked up the air motors for switches. Yours is the first detailed explanation I've been able to find. Thank you. I will go to air motors when I start laying track next fall.

Les W.

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  • From: North Coastal San Diego
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Posted by Greg Elmassian on Sunday, May 27, 2007 10:04 PM

It's so easy to convert to air power it's silly. Feel free to email me if you want any more pictures of specific items, or more explanation of using solenoids to control the air motors.

Regards, Greg

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

 Click here for Greg's web site

 

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