I have recently nearly completed an "EL" from my area 3 right across area 2 to connect up with a reversing loop in area 1. My problem is that area 1 is too low. it needs to com up by 80 mm ( 3and bit ") to 150 mm (6") where a set of points (switch) will be.
Area 1 is now on a Japanese religeous theme with a pagoda and a vast pebbled plain for prayer and meditation. This rea has 15 R1 curves in 20 m (60') of track and it winds through the pebbles and a small jungle of palms and ferns in a tropical type growth.
How do i lift the track ie what method should i use so that i will not spoil this theme?
Rgds Ian
PS I am not religeous, i have travelled a lot in the orient and these areas are what i have seen and liked in my travels. I also have a Thai Bhuddist area as well.
Hi iandor
That sounds to be in the region of brick height.
No matter what you do I think there will be some level of intrusion caused by the modification.
The best I can come up with is raise the track on bricks cut for the job and build low embankments out of the same pebbles that are used in the area this I think would cause the least visual intrusion in the area.
Some sort of binder would be handy to keep the pebbles heaped up for the banks
regards John
John and Dave; Gentlemen that was just brilliant ; well done, i will look into it.
I am pretty computer illiterate other wise i would post a few pictures of the area.
My wife Doreen does all the trackside work and she is very good at decorative gravels stones etc.
What about if i do put a row of small concrete blocks around the way; sink them and later on raise them to suit the gradient which willbe a bit more thn 1% i think.and then dress the whole thing up with fines and decorative ballast?
What do you think gentlemen?
Rgds ian
Dave
This has gone a bit further and Doreen has agreed to it; she is charge of all track side and stuff and has an equal say in this sort of thing. We can get concrete block the same size as a standard brick and a few other sies as well. I have a new angle grinder with a diamond wheel and i can cut through concrete like a hot knife through butter. They use concrete block a lot around here for various reasons.
We thought of making the way wider than a minimum 110 mm in places and use a lot of flat river stones with no mow grass in between. as well as a mixture of fines and concrete (cement) and a biege colouring oxide to hold everything together and to present a creamy image as we have now..
What do you think?
Send us an email mate and ill send you some photos of the area and see if you can add anythingelse please.
This has now gone a bit further and i have had a major breakthrough with the upper approaches and have now come up with a maximum height increase of 150 mm at S10 (switch 10) and a minimum of 80 mm at switch S9.The short distance from S10 to S09 is 4.8 m which will give me a gradient of just under 2 % which is what the upper approach is. The long distance beteen those switches is about double the short distance so this will make the grade a bit less than 1 % which is all very manageable.
PS have your email.
Sounds like things are well under control.
I hope pictures are threatened as this is a bit different to what I would normally call a Garden Railway,
Sounds like the blending in of the modificacions is going to be the key to success.
Yes gentlemen I have been working on two project together for months and have had nothing but delays a lot is to do with waiting for availability of funds and for us to take a trip down to Sydney to get 3.6 m rail lengths.
But i have just now sourced my detection module for the other project and the brick idea looks like being just right, 76 mm high which is one dimension of the brick and it will just suit my lowest height and two bricks will just suit my highest height and the width of 110 mm will just be right for accomodating a single track. i have even sourced brick seconds for A$0.30 e
As well i have resumed an earlier article on this forum, to do with "Gulapata" with view to coatimg the bricks, to get a realistic idea of a way through a rocky environment.
If anyone is interested i have done a guesstimation type calculation, for this goo and have sourced all the materials here in Queensland.
1 part portland cement, 2 parts fire clay, 2 parts hydrated lime, 45 parts ready mix mortar and about 17 parts water, depending on conditions.
Anyone interested in this i am sure Rene can direct you to the article, she did me about a year ago,
Well Gentlemen;
I have purchased 50 bricks @ $0.30 e and have akready started putting them in place and they are working out quite well.
First step is to place the two points (swirtches) which i have virtually done Both sites are the correct height in the correct position and level in bith directions. Have already started on the shorter way between the two sites.
I have now purchased my second lot of second hand bricks and have had a trial run with the goo and have achieved a light biege colour, will try to develope a sandstone block type pattern.
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