joining brass code 250 rail

[graham wilko]

I wish to ask the best method of joining tack to ensure a positive electrical connection.

Graham wilko

[kstrong]

Soldering the rail together is the absolutely bulletproof way to do that, but it's also quite permanent. Next on the list would be to solder jumper wires across the joint. Not quite as permanent, but still mostly bulletproof. The only trick with soldering is that you need a good amount of heat with the brass rail to ensure a good joint--typically enough heat to risk damaging the surrounding plastic ties.

The next "best" option is to use railclamps, like those made by Hillman. These just clamp onto the bottom of the rail via stainless steel screws, and hold everything very snugly together. Because the rail is clamped tightly, the rail won't oxidize (no oxygen, no oxidization), so electrical continuity is maintained. The best part is that this is not permanent--all you need to do to change the track is unclamp the joiner. Best of all, there's no heat involved, so you won't melt any ties.

Later,

K

[two tone]

Whats wrong with fish plates and a small amount of graphite grease I have not had a problem with bad connections using this metherd

[Anonymous]

Not soldering track joins is usually a recipe for ongoingtrouble. I use LGB joiners (they are easier to solder than Aristo) and i solder everything with no trouble in 4 years, here in the tropics. Howver i use Hillman clamps where points (switches) are involved as you sometimes have to remove them for service.

This is the way Jack Verducci tells you to do it in the text bookon the subject.

Rgds ian

[FJ and G]

I've been soldering my rail joiners to the rails direct (no jumpers). code 332 aristo brass. Not using track power. Hopefully they won't buckle or do something crazy

[Anonymous]

I still like the solder idea but with out the jumper and I can still see using a clamp on top of that. 1/2 cents.

William

[kstrong]

The biggest problem with fishplates and any kind of conductive grease is simply longevity relative to climate. The grease has the same effect as the railclamp--it keeps oxygen from the two surfaces, thus preventing oxidation. However, like any unsealed grease joint, it will eventually leak out as the environment takes its toll. Expansion and contraction will slide the joiners back and forth, and dirt will be able to work its way into the joint. The dirt is as effective an insulator as oxidation.

The joiners and grease may work very well for years, it may only work one season. There's a lot of variation in the success of that method. Translation: If it works for you, don't fix it!

There was one fellow out here in Denver who had a very simple solution; he shot a small self-tapping screw through the railjoiner into the base of the rail. (Similar to Aristo, but going vertical instead of horizontal across the web.) This worked very well for him over the years that he had his railroad. I don't know what he used on his current line, if he kept with that method, or switched to rail clamps.

Later,

K

[kimbrit]

I use Aristo track because I like their idea of track bolts. I bought an Aristo drill and tap set for the odd cuts of track I have and it's very quick and easy to do. If you are using longish lengths of track think about buying Aristo fishplates, bolts and the tap and drill set, very cheap, very efficient, very easy to take apart and no electrical problems.

Cheers,

Kim

[Anonymous]

I too liked the Aristo idea of a screw through the joiner and into the rail; but i have changed my mind as i have had trouble with them after only two years or so. As soon as i get trouble i remove the Aristo joiner, clean the whole thing up and put an LGB joiner on and solder the lot and voila no more trouble. The Aristo joiners on my layout seem to fill up with dirt and lose reliability of conductivity.

Rgds Ian