Edit post

Edit your reply below.

Post Body
Enter your post below.
[quote]QUOTE: Originally posted by FJ and G Thanks, Tom. TJ, The roadbed is hardiboard. The girder is attached to two 1.5" X 1.5" treated pine strips that run the length of the bridge. I'm not sure if they'll warp but if they do, changing them out to something more sturdy shouldn't be too much of a problem. I often wonder sometimes when I see people's elaborate trestles if they have a problem with warping. [/quote] Nice looking bridge. You'll probably experience some minor warping depending how dry your PTL strips were before you intalled them. Shouldn't be anything to worry about. IME, with wood outdoors, a good film finish will keep kiln dried stock straight, if it's that way when the stucture is put together in the first place. Regarding welding your own bridges... a significant portion of the expense in having this done is the cutting and fitting, not necessarily the welding. If you want to try this in the future, I'd see if you can locate a small shop to do the welding for you. (Around here the rates are $30 to $40 an hour for common steel). if you bring in your stock already cut and squared, they'll tack it together for you. Thin wall square steel tube is relatively cheap and available. Cutting the stock and squaring the ends isn't that difficult, just onerous. [:D] Of course, a simple design is a huge help. I don't think I'd be tacking a Warren truss right off. [;)] A side benefit of building one of these monsters yourself: the next time you're eyeballin' the wares at Eaglewings, their prices will look pretty darn good to you. [:p]
Tags (Optional)
Tags are keywords that get attached to your post. They are used to categorize your submission and make it easier to search for. To add tags to your post type a tag into the box below and click the "Add Tag" button.
Add Tag