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Weatherproofing plastic model kits.

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Weatherproofing plastic model kits.
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, July 2, 2006 10:15 AM
I have started to add structures to my railroad and wanted to get opinions on plastic kits such as those made by Piko and Aristocraft. I live in Western PA where there is a seasonal mix of sun and snow. Although the kits say "weather resistant" I'm not sure at what point they stop resisting the weather! I've just recently added a few buildings and tried to pick more shaded areas of placement, however some will get direct sunlight all day. If the structures weather gracefully, that would be cool. If they dry, crack, warp, etc, that would be bad. Should I use a UV treatment? If so, what would you recommend for plastic and how often does it need applied? I intend to bring the structures inside during the winter.

Thanks,
Rich
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Posted by Pagardener on Wednesday, July 5, 2006 11:05 PM
Find a place that carries a full line of Krylon..they have UV resistant clear coatings you could use. I have quite a few PIKO and Aristocraft buildings as well as wood scratch built and I coat everything with Krylon of one sort or another. Fortunaely I do not have to worry about the sun as my layout it is in the shade except for the very early morning hours. Hope this helps
Barbara
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 6, 2006 10:22 PM
Thanks for the advice, I'd just about given up any chance of a response! Does the spray come in a matte finish or dull coat? I guess even if it doesn't, shiney structures are better than the plastic drying out and checking. Also, does the product need re-applied periodically?

Thanks,
Rich F.
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Posted by pimanjc on Thursday, July 6, 2006 10:45 PM
Prrrich,
I have a mix of Piko, Aristocraft, TSC plastic, and wooden structures. Last year, I left them out 360. There has been some fading of the bright yellow Aristo station. It looks better now. Otherwise, I don't see much change in the Plastic buildings. The wood buildings are coated with Polyurethane Spar each year, and still suffer deteriation. I don't know if this makes a difference, but the buildings are lighted with 4w. low voltage lighting for three hours each evening.

If you look at the right edge of the station town [Vinita] sign, you can see the edge of darker yellow that the building used to display. Aristo - 3, Piko - 2, TMC plastic Church, Wood - 2.

Ozark - Mountain Village - all wooden structures [bird feeders].

JimC.
"Never promise more than you can give. Always give more than you promise." ~JC "You don't stop laughing because you grow old, You grow old because you stop laughing." ~AU
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Posted by Ray Dunakin on Friday, July 7, 2006 12:42 AM
Wow, that night scene looks terrific!
 Visit www.raydunakin.com to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 7, 2006 4:32 PM
Jim- Thanks for the advice and the pics. I also like the effect of natural weathering, and for that purpose leave a selection of rolling stock outside day and night to "season". The Piko type kits are real nice, but expensive. I hope if anyone out there has had any serious solar damage (cracking/warping) to plastic kit structures, you'd be so kind to share your experience.

Rich F.
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Posted by pimanjc on Saturday, July 8, 2006 12:21 AM
Ray and PRRRich,
Thanks for the nice comments. I bought all the Piko buildings on Ebay. The two stores were repaired and/or modified somewhat. Buying them used, the expense wasn't too great. The TSC Church was only $20. The Aristo station and warehouse were also bought on Ebay for $39. each.
JimC.
"Never promise more than you can give. Always give more than you promise." ~JC "You don't stop laughing because you grow old, You grow old because you stop laughing." ~AU
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 8, 2006 2:37 PM
the sun will be your biggest concern. it has it's way with bare plastic from day one.

nobody knows when plastic will self destruct on it's own, so preservation is speculative no matter what you try. i do know if you keep it in a box stored away in a cool dark place, i can vouch for a 50 year minimum. i've seen the sun wreck plastic in a matter of weeks.

if you paint your structures; the sun will work on the paint instead of the plastic, and just like the real thing when it needs repainting it will look like it.

in real life house paints are in two categories: interior and exterior. interior dries harder, interfaces with humans better, and is prone to sun damage (but it's inside).
exterior house paint, never really dries and stays relatively flexible so it can handle the expansion and contraction effects from the sun, and generally just stay tough.
this is something to consider if you go the paint route. any paint will work better than no paint.

of those clear uv resistant coatings: don't expect them to work. they do help, but without a comprehensive maintenance program of reapplication, the sun will get ahead of you and win.

have you considered just performing reasonable measures with reasonable maintenance and watch them age into the ground while adding a new one occasionally to help illustrate the cycle of life?

buying them cheap and landscaping a little shade here and there would be my solution to the issue.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 13, 2006 3:14 PM

 I live in the mountians of NC and we have rain, snow, ice, wind and sun -- but I leave all of my 28 Piko/Pola structures out year round -- they have been out for 4 years now - without much UV damage. Previously these same building were out in the weather in San Diego for 5 years without any highly noticeble UV damage -- other than a slight fading of the colors which could be expected -- and which gave the buildings a slight 'weathered patina'. 

Using the clear UV protection paints that are available will keep the color at a brighter level (for a while) but you will see them start to peel in a year or two ....

I would worry more about the glue/adhesive that you used to put together the buildings than the UV damage. - the glue that comes with the building kits is useless in high rain areas as is any type of Super Glue. What I have found that works best is to assemble the buildings using a generous amount of GOOP -Plumbing Adhesive on all seams.(get it at Lowes or Home Depot) Once that dries for at least 24 hours, I cover every seam on the inside of the building with a generous bead of Silicon Caulking (same that is used in bathrooms). Both of these products adhear well to the plastic but will also will flex, contract and expand when heated or cooled. -- if you don't do this you will find that in a season or two, you structures will start falling apart and will need to be re-glued.

Hope this helps

René

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