Body mounted couplers?

[Neiler]

I'm looking at converting to body mounted couplers - maybe Kadee - but am daunted by the selection and costs. Do I keep using the old trucks and just nip off the couplers? Can I run some one way and not do the conversion all at once?
I don't have many cars (yet) and the conversions would be to Bachmann, NE Narrow guage, and Hartford. The engines are all Bachmann 1:20.3 except for Ruby.
Are there other options out there? I really enjoy setting cars out and "running" the railroad and the truck mounted couplers have got to go!

[rpc7271]

I have Aristo, USA, LGB, Lionel, & MDC equipment and the couplers never hook up so I use Kadee couplers exclusively. Most are body mounted. You can save money buy buying them in large lots (I usually buy 20 pairs at a time) over the internet. Try Wholesale Trains or Ridge Road Station. Buying a lot at one time saves money on shipping. One thing you can do is to convert only one coupler per car to kadee's but that means you hook up Kadees to Kadees only. The way it works is like this: ac-AC-kd+kd-USA-usac+uasc-USA-kd+kd-LGB-lgbc+lgbc-LGB-kd,etc ac=Aristo copuler, AC=Aristo Car, kd=Kadee Coupler, USA=USA Trains car, usac=USA Trains Coupler, lgbc=LGB Coupler, LGB=LGB Car. Kadee's couple to kadee's, aristo's to aristo's USA's to USA's etc. Iuse body mounted #830's on everything but Aristo tank cars and MDC hoppers. I use #835's on those because the coupler box is smaller and isn't seen as easily.

[rpc7271]

Oh ya, I cut the couplers off of the trucks and reinstall the trucks.

[mikearcher]

I am using Kadee 789's for my 20.3:1 work. Not sure if they are prototypically correct but they work for me.

[kstrong]

For me, Kadees are the only way to go for couplers. AMS's couplers are a very, very close second if you're doing 1:20.3, and modeling a railroad that uses full-sized couplers. (Many narrow gauge railroads used a 3/4 size coupler).

The Kadees (in the regular draft gear) have a good amount of swing, and also have built-in "slack action." I would recommend doubling the centering springs, as the 1:20 equipment is typically heavier than the average car, and this will keep you from pulling your train with the couplers constantly at full extension. Each packet contains extra springs, so this is easily done.

The "short draft gear" couplers are okay too, but they have some drawbacks. First, they don't have the side-to-side play of the standard draft gear couplers, so they'll be less tolerable of tight curves or S curves commonly found at passing sidings and spurs. (Mike, try the #830 coupler. You may find they work smoother for you.)

Also, cut that stupid pin off the bottom. No one I've ever come across uses the automatic uncoupling feature that made Kadees famous in the small scales. Since the pins serve no purpose outdoors, just snip 'em off, and eliminate their ability to snag on anything, derailing the train in the process.

The AMS couplers are great couplers, too. They operate like the prototype, so you can install "real" coupler lift bars to open them. Their only real shortfall is that they, too, have a very short draft gear, so they suffer the same motion problems as the short draft gear Kadees.

There are folks who swear by the Bachmann couplers, too. I've never liked them as they come uncoupled far too easily, and just look clunky and non-prototypical. Aristo and USA couplers look a bit better, but also suffer the same problem in terms of unwanted uncoupling. Since they are designed to be uncoupled from below by pushing up on a pin or lever, any leaf, twig, or other obstruction will readily split the train. That, and they're not inherently designed to be body-mounted. You'd have to devise your own suitable mount. Not impossible, but far more work than assembling a Kadee coupler--and for roughly the same price.

Since you "don't have many cars," converting everything in a short period of time shouldn't be terribly expensive. I'll second the Ridge Road Station recommendation. When I did my last "bulk" order a few years ago, they had the best prices. Get enough to do a handful of cars at a time, and before the summer's over, you'll have your entire fleet converted.

Later,

K

[Anonymous]

I started in G guage in 1990 I have been converting all my stuff as I go ( most of the time ) I have been very satisfided with KAYDEE I use #1 gauge couplers with a #1coupler hight guage. All of the cars I have converted work extermly well.
I cut off the old coupler from the truck as close to the far end as possable. If you are using short 4FT diamiter track you may need to remove some of the coupler box sides to give more swing.