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Wiring Track Power - Large Scale
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In the Pacific NW, there seems to be a lot more variables. I'm runing tests on my deck after experiencing acid soil, heavy rain and flooding; and slugs shorting out rails. <br /> <br />Idea: You can use the cheapo Bachmann rail with good results, in a small area. Let them go ahead and rust, then scrub the top of the rail with an abrasive, followed by a light conductive paste. <br /> <br />Looks really authentic, and operates well as long as wires are soldered inside/beneath the rails and you have piece-to-piece wires as well. For a little demo layout this is good looking. Unless you view this as a career, I don't recomment it for overall layout construction. <br /> <br />Follow traditional 2-rail gapping (find plans similar to yours which include rail gaps. <br /> <br />The biggest problem I've ever found on my own was a reverse loop disguised by distance. I had to take two colored pencils around the track diagram to solve it. <br /> <br />If you take track polarity and switching constaints into your plans, you will almost automatically solve your concerns: eash "branch" is autonimously powered and can have multiple feeders along it. <br /> <br />The bigger the wire, the better. Further, if you can get it in cable (surplus) form, you've got the ability to expand in an orderly fashion; rather than ripping wires out and cussing <grin.> <br /> <br />BTW, my "garden Rway" varies between 200 (base) and about 2000 linear feet, depending on seasons. I'm ripping it all out, since we're moving; and I'm seriously considering weatherproof modules for indoor/outdoor use. <br /> <br />This approach might address your concerns as well. <br /> <br />-D <br /> <br />
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