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I need a G scale power supply/controller.....

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I need a G scale power supply/controller.....
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 5, 2006 10:26 PM
I am just getting into G scale, and need a better power supply/controller, than the one amp bachman, that came with my starter set.

I am contemplating the Crest Elite duel volt power supply - PN: 55465
along with the Crest 10 amp, TE - PN: 55470

or

The MRC, 10 amp, G power supply/controller. And maybe add the Crest TE later. ( This would be my cheapest way to go at first, but cost more in the long run).

Any experience with these items? or suggestions as to which of these systems would be better or worse than the other?

Thanks for any replies....

OkieRRr
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Posted by Tom The Brat on Friday, January 6, 2006 7:43 AM
Either would be nice.

I have Aristo-Craft TE, but power them with 6 amp electronics power supplies from http://www.allelectronics.com just 'cause it's cheaper[;)]
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Posted by tangerine-jack on Friday, January 6, 2006 9:09 AM
I use a Crest TE with a matching 10 amp power supply. I find that it serves all of my current needs very well and has plenty to offer for future expansions.

The question is, what are you running??? How many feet of track, how many locos/accesories? You might find that you don't need a system capable of controlling 999 locos when 10 will do. I do support the idea of lots of power amps on tap, trains run better with plenty of juice!

I like the KISS method (Keep It Simple, Stupid!) for everything garden RR related. Fewer things to go wrong.

The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 6, 2006 9:32 AM
Thanks for the reply Torby.....cheaper sounds good, and makes sense. I am looking for something that will serve me now, but allow for expansions of no telling what in the future.

Tangerine-jack..... Right now I am planning about 150' of track, with siding, and a rail yard where I can part 3 or 4 more trains, and run them on the main line, one at a time. There will remote control switches, and eventually some lighting. I know I don't need that much power right now, but hoping to get something that will cover me in future expansions. I like the KISS method, but want to be ready for the future too.

Thanks for the replies...

OkieRRr
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Posted by tangerine-jack on Friday, January 6, 2006 10:14 AM
A TE with 10 amp (or something equivilent) would be plenty for what you are planning. Good luck!

The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 6, 2006 10:33 AM
Hi Okie:

Jack has given you good advise. However if you plan on getting into LGB trains down the road, you may want to look at there power supplys, if not the TE is the best all around unit.

Have Fun: Jeff
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Posted by Capt Bob Johnson on Friday, January 6, 2006 1:40 PM
Look at it this way. In the 1960's houses were still being built with 60 amp elect service, and 100 amp housepower was just coming into vogue. Trouble was, when the air conditioner in the bedroom window cycled on, all the lights in the house flickered and went dim. Now, better than 150 Amp service is needed due to all the fancy electronics, HVAC, well pumps, kitchen gear (stoves, nukes, dishwashers, reefers, wine coolers, icemakers, etc.) and the like that we find normal in our homes.

This extrapolates to our trains! While 5 amps might run what trains we want, what happens when we throw a string of lighted passenger cars, electronically operated switches, lighted houses for scenery, sound equipment, and the like onto the power supply?

When you look at the price difference between a 5 amp unit and a biggie, you'll find that the biggie is not porportionally more expensive! Like buying 1 beer as opposed to a sixpack! I'd go for the biggest supply you can afford, then you are set for whatever you do!

Since I noted your other posting, yes, go with your little 1 amp for the test track and some winter play time; but when you go to power up the layout, go big!

Even if you decide to wait on the TE, they also make a rheostat controller that you can put in the line to run them the old way. I have one to plug in for troubleshooting and for other times of need (like when trackside TE got flooded out).
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Posted by piercedan on Saturday, January 7, 2006 5:59 AM
When looking at the Aristo line, remember that only the trackside TE has a linear selection for power.
This is important for some sound units .
Also, newer engines like higher voltage due to internel electronics and a regulated power supply is needed (Aristo Elite).. The older supplies out there are lower voltages and not regulated (Aristo Ultima).

When it comes to power supplies you ususlly get what you pay for, more $$ is usually better.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 2:27 PM
The higher the VA rating the more power you have at higher voltages. VA means Voltas * Amps. Since most power cupplies for G scale will output 20-28 volts then to have 10 amps you need 200-280 VA to run at the highest voltage with the highest current.

There are power supplies for G scale out there with up to 600VA (25 amps at 24 volts).

Also the better the filtering the better off you are. Filtering reduces AC power in the DC line (often referred to as noise). This AC can ruin sound systems, puts undue stress on motors and can harm other components of your layout. Filtering cost money so the better filtering is usually found in more expensive power supplies.

Also, run 10-12 gauge wire to your track. The shorter the distance to the track the better. This will minimize voltage rop in the wire and lost power. And, keeping your track clean is also helpful.
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Posted by gvdobler on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 5:50 PM
The MRC 6200 might be a good choice at $100 street price.

http://www.modelrectifier.com/products/trainSound/product.asp?ID=1262&Subcategory=Big%20power

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