Corregation made easy and simple (pictures)

[FJ and G]

First, you get a $16 paper crimper from Michael's. It does foil, which is what we want; up to 6.5 inches across. If you look at pictures of old corregated sided industries, you'll note that there often is a lot of overlapping pieces, so this should be just fine.

Then you get yourself a can of pop. I found a crushed one so the following photos will have some dings in the metal. Be sure to wash out the can.

Then get some tin snips or even heavy duty scissors and carve up the can.



Here's both sides, just put thru the roller one time. Very easily goes thru. You could do heavier gauge brass or other metal but at some point it would likely break the contraption so don't get carried away and try to roll steel thru it. Put your lettering or decals on before you roll it thru. The Dr Pepper lettering actually looks pretty slick.

Some Santa Fe F45 locomotives had corregated siding so you can even scratchbuild a brass loco using this technique.





Then when you are finished. Sit down and admire your work and have some Port wine. Now, if only I could find the cork. Where did I put it?

BB the beagle! You didn't.

[jzmsvm]

I've seen this before and thought it looked like a quick and easy way to make something that looks so complicated. My question is this: how do you then put the peices together to make a larger sheet of metal? Does aluminum solder or do you have to use rivets? Do they make rivets that small? I would assume any kind of glue would be too weak. I'm a wood-worker so anything with metal is foreign to me. Thanks for the idea and the help!
Jennifer

[FJ and G]

Hi Jennifer,

I'm going to use this technique for an upcoming project. If you want to see an outstanding photo of a corregated structure (don't know if this tool was used), go to the latest (or last?) GRR mag and look at the 2nd place winner in the photo contest near the back. It shows a corregated structure with pieces emplaced (as opposed to an entire corregated wall in one piece). I'm going to be using that photo as my blueprint for a different structure.

For outdoors, I'm planning on making cedar walls and nailing this to the walls. For areas where I want windows, I'm going to be using insulative sheathing nailed to a cedar wood frame (overlapping the corregated layers) slightly. I may try & use silicone calking.

You could, alternately, use rivets. I happen to have a riveter and may try that as well. If you screw up, just drink another can of pop and try again.

Hope this helps. Other, more experienced modelers, might have ideas here.

[vsmith]

You can also use silicon adhesive to attach the panels, I do this too but found coke cans to be a bit hard to roll thru so I used sheets of "soft aluminum" from K&S Metals. Its great for indoor models but likely too soft for exterior models.

[Rene Schweitzer]

David,

Thanks for sharing--your pics are great. I only wanted to add that if you check out your Sunday paper, Michaels ads will usually have a coupon for 40% off one item. The crimper would be around $9.50 then!

[RhB_HJ]

QUOTE: Originally posted by FJ and G
..........................................

Then when you are finished. Sit down and admire your work and have some Port wine. Now, if only I could find the cork. Where did I put it?

BB the beagle! You didn't.

Yes, he did! [;)][;)][:D][:D][:D][:D]

Wouldn't be a beagle if he didn't. [;)][;)][;)][;)][:D][:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]

[ttrigg]

Jennifer:

I've done the corrugated thing before in both HO and N, and will be doing it again next summer for the garden. What I have found that looks best is when the corrugated panels are scaled at 4 ft by 10 ft and overlapped. Lapping side to side works best (at least in the smaller scales) with a vertical "wood frame" member behind the lap. In real life the lap is 1 and ½ corrugation per side. When doing a roof (or tall building siding) start from the bottom, next layer up would overlap by a scale 4~6 inches (slope dependent.) On a roof, staggering the overlap a little improves overall appearance (i.e. First panel overlap at 4 inch, second panel at 7 inch, third panel at 5 inch etc.) For the indoor smaller scales I used rubber cement (grade school type) but for the outdoor stuff a good silicon should do fine.

[Anonymous]

I have used corrugated aluminum to cover an engine house. The individual pieces were put on with a slight overlap with water activated polyurethane glue. It has now had three seasons outside with no sign of the individual pieces working loose.

[Anonymous]

I am new to this forum.
I have a how to on making Sheet tin on my web page. I use #110 card stock and a Fiskars crimper. http://dawgstrainhouse.com/

[Kiwi Down Under]

I suppose the cans where you are must be thinner than the alloy used down under because there is no way the crimper I can buy will take that thickness, so its back to the drawing board.

Will take a coke can but they cover the inside with a plastic material that wont take paint. Same as our beer cans.

Now, contrary to everything thats been said in the past, I tried another way, and it works. First, buy some alloy dish's ( the disposable type) cut strips the same scale size as sheets of roofing iron.

Crimp one and glue onto wooden block with no more nails, or simular wallboard glue. Now cut strips of normal domestic tinfoil ( the stuff you buy on a roll.) into suitable size lenghts, then , crimp .

Cover what you want to stick it on with no more nails, ( roof of model) lay the tinfoil onto the glue then press into the grooves of the tinfoil with your harder crimped alloy mounted onto the timber press. This sets the grooves of the thinner tinfoil into the glue. Wait until dry, and the corrogations are held in place by the glue. Results, looks realistic. Mine has been in the weather for 12 months and has weathered nicely and ridges are still there. I have made 8 building fronts this way and they are all just as good as when I made them.

Will include photots when I update my web page.
Its a bit more mucking about but the results are well worth it.

Tony.