Rail Clamps & Electrical track connections

[mtm1site]

I have layed about 3/4 of the mainline and am about to order rail clamps for turnouts & electrical track connections. Split Rail somewhat explains the different types of clamps and uses but I would like to hear your opinions. Should I use the clamps that clamp over the rail connectors or should I use clamps that go directly over the rails? I see that aristo track has screws that connect the ties to the tracks and I could use these for electrical connections, but they are very small and the outdoor lighting wire I am placing in the right of way to connect every 8ft is #12 wire. What say you,al? TOM PS: Another question. Do you do the final leveling with the chicken grit or is the final leveling done with the crusher fines and the chicken grit is only for locking in the track and making it look good?

[Anonymous]

No Tom this is not the best way it is only a bandaid. get rid of the origonal connectors altogether, but be acreful as you may damage the small welded internal connections in the points (switches). I have many connections to points and in every case I have used Hillman clamps as recommended by Jack Verducci and I can tell you they are terrific, no trouble at all. If you want before you do the clamp up put the your aire in between the clamp and thre rail; tighten up and you have a a simple cheap trouble free connection. I always tin my connections first as they will be mechanically stronger than un tinned ones but again you may get a down side a) more liable to crack. b) The flux used in soldering can sometimes have a corrosive affect on your wire.

Rgds ian

[Tom The Brat]

A number 4 spade lug fits under the screws of the Split Jaw clamps very neatly. On the shop layout, I used mostly the aristo track screws and joiners and put Split Jaw clamps wherever the joiner was inconvenient or for a power connector.

http://www.gardentrack.com/facillity/facillity.html

[markperr]

This is strictly speculation on my part but I believe the over the existing clamp, clamp is for when you are having continuity problems with that existing clamp. The screws on the split-jaw will draw them together and force a better connection. If you don't already have clamps on the joints and are looking to use split-jaw or hillman, then I suggest you use the over-the-rail type and leave the original joiner off. That said, I've used Aristo's joiners on my layout and coupled with LGB conductive paste, I find that they work exceptionally well. In three years of Michigan winters and summers, I've not had one continuity problem attributed to joiners.

I would do my final leveling using the crusher fines if you can and then just lay the chicken grit on for decoration. I, myself, actually use the chicken grit alone and it works just fine. Only needs touch up in the spring.

Mark



Mark

[mtm1site]

Thanks you guys for the input on clamps. You know, I,am hearing a lot of people on this forum state that the aristo track screw connections are working really well as long as you use the LGB paste/grease. Maybe I am just doing more than necessary when putting down track,laying wire in the ballast, and going overboard with the electrical conductivity that I really need for the track. One thing bothers me though. If I do not build redundancy (overbuild) into the operations when I go to DCC will just the screws and paste work ok? TOM

[Tom The Brat]

(Psst. The aristo joiners and screws work quite well without the grease. They just have a tendancy to work loose when you first put the track together until it gets settled, but if you tighten them up they'll stay. But you didn't hear that here.)

[mtm1site]

(Psst. Thanks Torby, Hope no one sees this as LGB may go out of business.) TOM

[BudSteinhoff]

My track (1200 ft including 24 switches)has been down outside for 7 years, have had no problems and all I used was the Aristo track screws and conductive grease.
Torby is correct , after every thing settles retighten screws.
I check mine about one time a year.
All my feeders are soldered directly to the track rail which eliminates any corrsion or current loss
I run on-board receivers or DCC.
Railclamps are great but expensive
Bud[8D]

[Anonymous]

I agree with mark about them being used to fix a troublesome problem. However mate i don't agree about the screw Aristo type. I anly have about 5 of these connections and they are the only ones that give me any trouble at all, not much mind you but some all the same. I think they are better than the LGB ones as is, but the LGB soldered are absolutely un beatable.

rgds ian

[Tom The Brat]

Well, if Ian and I ever agreed on something, it would cause serious concern and they'd probably cart us away to an asylum[:D]

[Anonymous]

This year I replaced all the original Arist screw conectors with rail clamps and the railroad hasn't run this good since I first put down the track . I tried the grease and screws and I was getting poor conductivity in spots . I sometimes run a MTH challenger with the proto-2.0 system and one of the features of this system is electrical track test mode . When you use this system you set your transformer to 18 volts constant on the rails . Then with the handheld you can see what the volt reading is anywhere on the railroad . Well I was getting readings of 10 volts and even lower in spots . That meant control signals wouldn't reach the engine and things like the whistle and speed wouldn't reach the reciever in the locomotive . Now with the clamps I am getting 18.1 to 17.9 all over the system . In my opinion they are definatly worth the extra money . I run about 350 feet of track and use only one connector from the powerpack to the rails with no real drop off in voltage .

[Anonymous]

I STARTED to replace the aristo joiners with split rail joiners , as i change things ,i think they are a lot better .i'm replacing them a little at a time, ben

[Anonymous]

I have used both the split clamps and the unsplit ones and i couldn't say which are the best but i seem to finds it easier to get the unsplit ones on that the split ones.

I am doing something different now, I am using a large pair of pliers to draw the 2 sides of the clamp together then doing the screws up and it is much easier fot a semi old fart like me. Actually they are not pliers but something similar and not only do i not know the names of them in the USA i don't know what they are called here either


Rgds ian.

Listen mate that bit about disagreeing is a good thing we migh both learn something from each other. I we all agreed an everything no progress would be made and it would be a very dull place. Keep disagreeing with me I love it.