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Large Trains that work on 4ft radius curves.

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I run a Bachmann Shay with truck-mounted Kadee couplers on 4' radius. It works fine. I originally tried body-mounted, but got some derailments on a few 2' radius areas that I, unfortunately, needed to have. Body-mounted couplers should work all day at 4'. I also run a Bachmann Climax with body-mounted Kadee couplers on 4' radius with no problem (no problem at 2' radius either). In addition, I run an Aristo-Craft railbus without problems. There are limitations to 4' radius, however, that should be watched for, especially on some of the larger, newer offerings. I believe all LGB locos, no matter what size and wheel arrangement are designed to work all the way down to 2' radius. Their latest offering, the 2-8-2 Mikado, has a pivot point between driver axles 2 and 3 and the connecting rods to allow it to negotiate tight curves. I have heard it looks a little strange, but it works. I believe USA Trains,' Aristo-Craft's and MTH's *-8-* and the MTH Challenger will not work at 4', but will at 5' (please verify this before buying anything). I have also learned from mylargescale.com that the Bachmann outside frame Consolidation will work at 4', but with groaning noises and some interference (but the interference can be modified out). The B'mann Connie should really only run at 5' radius and above. I can't speak for the modern long diesels. I think they will probably negotiate the curves, but may have a very unusual appearance as their bodies will significantly overhang the curve. Basically, I try to follow the following rules. 1. Any four wheel driver loco should work (i.e. 0-4-0, 2-4-2). 2. Probably any six wheel driver loco should work (i.e. 4-6-0, 2-6-0). 3. Assume all eight wheel driver locos won't work (i.e. 2-8-2, 4-8-2) unless verified by manufacturer. 4. Any small wheeled, two-truck loco should work (i.e. Shay, Climax, F3, GP), but verify clearances on curves, especially approaching and leaving tunnels and bridges. 5. Assume all long-bodied locos and cars will look strange negotiating tight curves, but if you really want the engine and it works, forget about it. If it looks good to you, buy it. If it looks funny, but you still want it, plant something in front of your viewpoint to hide the tight curve.
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