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LGB Porter Power

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LGB Porter Power
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, April 16, 2005 1:11 PM
My LGB Porter often stops on the frogs of swritches because of it's small wheel base. Has anyone else had this problem.
If so how did you fix it?
Thanks,
Scott
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Posted by cacole on Saturday, April 16, 2005 6:50 PM
That's also a common problem in HO scale with short wheelbase locomotives and plastic frog turnouts. The only true solution is to have a powered, metal frog in all of your turnouts, or to use battery power and radio control for the locomotive.
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Posted by SandyR on Saturday, April 16, 2005 7:36 PM
I can't run them through older 1600 switches (LGB), although there are several on the GGGRS club layout that don't cause stalling. My 1200 switches are fine. No problems there with either of my LGB Porters, even at the slow speeds that I prefer.
SandyR
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, April 17, 2005 1:19 AM
I understand the longer the switch is the more you are likely to experience this problem.

I had this problem a bit with my Stainz and I solved the problem by fgetting a powred tender for it.


Rgds Ian
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, April 17, 2005 6:55 PM
Hi all,
THanks for the ideas. I think i'll build a tender for it, the loco looks kind of bare without one. any ideas on how to get the power to the motor?
Scott
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Posted by John Busby on Sunday, April 17, 2005 7:32 PM
Hi scot
from the tender pick ups to those convienient sockets that should be on the back of the cab.
Dont get your wires round the wrong way or you will short things out.
regards John
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, April 17, 2005 11:02 PM
John Busby,
Unfortunately, there aren't any convenient sockets on the back. so i need to find a way to add my own sockets.
Thanks,
Scott
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Posted by John Busby on Monday, April 18, 2005 4:51 AM
hi scot
One of those mini tiny two pin plug and sockets that is used in pc gear will do the trick
put underneath the cab and under the tender to the tender pick ups
One of those orrible Lehmann chuff chuff tenders would probably do the job if all you want is extra pick ups on the tender
Thats the only thoughts I have that will work and allow th tender and locomotive to be put away in thier boxes sorry cannot help with a part no for the plug and sockets but they are tiny i lnow it works thats how my coaches all stay lit up with jumpers using those plugs.
regards John
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 18, 2005 7:13 AM
I'd follow John's idea about the LGB tender (and I agree the sound unit is ghastly - the one in their starter set locos is much better). The snag I can see is that this tender doesn't have pickups (uses a 9v battery to power the sound). There is a solution though - you'll need one pack of the 67343 metal wheels, a 63193 electrical contact set, and some wire - fit the metal wheels and use the contacts to add pickups from them. All you need then is a couple of LGB's mini plugs (the old "barrel" type) to hook up to the loco (can't find a part number for these unfortunately, but if you buy a 68334 lighting socket adaptor it'll get you a pair).

The Porter I had had the sockets in the firebox door inside the cab - it's pretty dark in there though so a torch might come in handy. I know I couldn't find them at first! Hope this is of use.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 18, 2005 11:35 PM
My powered tender has pick ups and that is where it gets its power from!

Rgds ian
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 19, 2005 1:20 PM
Ah, yes, there's two types - there's the motorised tender with sound (as Ian has) and they also offer a cheap unpowered one in the Toytrain range (which has a basic sound chip powered from a 9V battery). I'd lean towards the second with a Porter - the powered one is a European design (for Stainz et al) while the Toytrain one is designed to suit the Porter. Also it's considerably cheaper, and if you don't need/want the extra haulage from the powered tender it'd probably be a better approach - I'd view it as being easier than scratchbuilding but still needing a respray (they're delivered in plain black) and a few details (tools, etc to taste). Sorry for the confusion!
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 19, 2005 9:49 PM
Yes those tenders are going all the time on ebay for about US $50 to $75.

Rgds ian
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 19, 2005 10:06 PM
There aren't any external hookups of any kind on my porter and the parts diagrams i have agree. Any suggestions on how i could patch in some wires to my own ports?
Thanks
Scott
P.S. i'll look into the toytrain tender
P.S.S. Just out of curiosity, how are you supposed to program the mts decoder if there aren't any hookups?
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Posted by John Busby on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 8:47 AM
Hi trainmaster1989
Right you will need a microscopic two pin plug and socket wire to suit toy train tender metal wheels for the tender thin brass or similar for pick ups.
First find a covienient location to solder your wires too on the locomotive pick up CCT
cut your wire long enough to reach from there to underneath on one of the cab sides.
you may have to file a small notch to achieve that.
solder wire into socket and attatche socket to cab with silicon sealer and solder other end of wires to the convienient location reasemble locomotive puting a dab of siicon in too seal cable notch.
i an not sure how tender is constructed.
But basicaly fit metal wheels find a spot you can dirll mounting holes for home made pick up wipers to which you have solderd wire that is long enough to go from pickups to
locomotive with a little slack to take curves ect into account fit plug making sure you do not build in a short CCT.
Make sure you do not put too much pressure on the pick ups to the wheels or they will cause to much drag.
That should be it apart from making sure all works well, securing the tender wire in place with a couple of dabs of silicon sealer and painting tender to match cab colour.
after that all being well your porter will not stall again and both loco and tender can still be packed away in thier boxes when not in use.
regards John
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Posted by vsmith on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 9:25 AM
Also keep in mind that the Toytrain tender DOES NOT have metal wheels, they are plastic and smaller than standard LGB wheels, and I dont know of any metal replacements for it. maybe a replacement aftermarket supplier can supply correct size wheels.

   Have fun with your trains

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 12:17 PM
Judging by the photos on the LGB site, they should be the same size as the wheels on some of their "Field Railroad" stock - part number 67343 - can't believe they'd bother to tool up a completely different wheelset for this vehicle so I'd guess they must be this type. Check before ordering if you can though - I've not seen one of these tenders "live" as it were or the wheelsets. Hope this is of use!
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Posted by SandyR on Wednesday, April 20, 2005 12:48 PM
It's my understanding that the newer Porters (I don't know about the current one) did not have a power outlet on the backhead. AND the earliest Porters which did have such a pickup were wired through the printed circuit board's 5V lighting circuit. So if you fed them more than 5V, you'd blow the board. We're talking about the original Helena and Daisy here, and I don't know about Anna.
Can anyone shed some light on this?
SandyR
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 21, 2005 11:52 PM
Yes mate I think that is right my Stainz is like that

Rgds Ian
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, April 24, 2005 12:38 AM
Thanks for all the help guys.
I think i'll either get a toytrain tender or make one. I'll just solder the wires coming from the connections to the pick ups (for both the Loco and tender).
Thanks again
Scott

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