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Yes, I suppose I have one laying around for soemthing. Just cut off the adapter plug end to expose the two wires? Does polarity matter in this case?
Polarity should not matter, unless the capacitor is an electrolytic. I can't tell from the schmatic whether it is or not.
Semper Vaporo
Pkgs.
according to the schematic, the left post is positive, and the middle post negative, do NOT connect anything to the right hand post.
You will notice these are the 2 posts that had the "wires to nowhere" attached and how the previous owner powered the unit.
Also, get something with at least 1 amp... if you have a little wall wart, the output current will be specified on it.
Greg
Yes, it is marked for polarity, but as far as the majority of the components are concerned, it really should not matter. EXCEPT for that capacitor because it COULD be polarity sensitive, so I agree... follow the schematic's markings.
The paper in the photos also states "600 milliAmps" for current, so a wall-wart type supply might work.
the only thing I could think of for polarity was that the bell "motor" might be more efficient in one polarity, depending on the steel core used.. but I agree should not make a difference.
Again, the first thing I would do is apply power directly to the coil and make sure it pulls the armature down.. if that works then test coil and contact, then "further out".
Step one seems to be getting a reliable 12v supply... ha ha.
Thanks Greg. I did find a basic wall wart 12v power adapter in a drawer (1.5 amps). Will cut the plug ind off, slit the wires, and put aligator clips on the wires and use that on the posts. Hoping my battery chargers and trickle chargers just werent powering because they didnt detect a battery. If this fails I will begin figuring out how to isolate coil using a voltmeter (not my specialty ;^)
Thanks EVERYONE. Success. At first it wasnt ringing well but I had it on its side. It has to be vertical to work correclty. Here it is in working order ;^)
Thank you all for your knowledge, passion (and pateince!)!
Now can you help me with the 4 way lights? Ha ha. Will start new post for that.
Thanks Greg. Someone scared me once saying one side of the terminals "had top stay neutral" or somethign like that so I didnt want mess it up. On that image below Im assuming the connections are the same two posts indicated by exisitng blue connection wires?
I connected a 12V power supply (same one used for my railroad bell ;^) and nothing happened. Tried it on the bottom inner posts. No lights. The bulbs "appear" to be intact - all filaments complete. Seems unlikely that all 4 bulbs are toast. But maybe. With direct power (no flasher) they should all light correct?
As usual, the best advice is to start at the beginning.
Take out the lights, test them with an ohmmeter.
Validate that the operating voltage is 12 volts... often marked on the bulb base.
Test the lights with a 12v supply that has AT LEAST 1 amp.
Report back.
Thanks for all the help. I finally got it to lightup using a variable supply off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/NES-350-12-Switching-Power-Supply-110-240/dp/B007K2H0GI
I probably should just pull out all the bulbs and sockets and wire for standard 100 wall outlet huh? Hindsight is 20/20. I also just recieved this Union signal switcher relay and have NO idea what to do with that.
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