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non powered sidings

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  • Member since
    August 2013
  • 2 posts
non powered sidings
Posted by mikadoCA on Monday, November 9, 2015 1:31 PM

I am new to garden railroading. I want to create a siding from the mainline that is powered or unpowered depending on the switch. Can this be done with manual switches? If so is there a simple way to do it? I know about the track insulator, but is there a simpler way to do it than buying about $150 of LGB switches and controllers?

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Santa Cruz, CA
  • 47 posts
Posted by tomgb on Monday, November 9, 2015 6:05 PM
Probably the easiest and least expensive way would be to simply bridge the isolated rail on your siding with a small SPST toggle switch which you could feed from the closest hot rail of a main or from a nearby track feed that may be serving multiple attachment points depending on the size of your layout. If you are trying to tie the isolation to the the throw of your track switch, it's a bit more complicated and depends on the switch controller you are currently using. When you throw from main to siding you could have it kill the siding at the same time but depending on where the track isolater is located, it might stop your engine before you were ready as soon as it entered the siding. I use the former method with small toggle switches and the cost and effort to install is pretty little. When everything is on the siding in a manner I like, I toggle the siding off.
  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Monday, November 9, 2015 8:59 PM

Have a look at using a small single throw electrical knife switch as the ground throw for the turnout. Run the connecting rod from the turnout to a point about 3/8 inch from the pivot poit of the electrical knife switch. Run a jumper wire from the mainline rail throught the knife switch to the isolated rail of the siding. When the knife arm is vertical the turnout is set for the mainline and the siding is non-powered. When the knife arm is down the turnout is set for the powered siding.

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Santa Cruz, CA
  • 47 posts
Posted by tomgb on Tuesday, November 10, 2015 7:10 PM
Tom Trigg’s advice (linking switch throw to electrical connection) is correct and my wording about it is bad, at best. In his version the siding stays hot until switched to main. If you just use a toggle switch on the isolated siding rail as I proposed, that will work too. Thanks for giving better advice TT.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: US
  • 1,384 posts
Posted by Curmudgeon on Thursday, November 12, 2015 3:48 PM

Of course, if you go radio/battery, there is no track live to be made dead....

TOC

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: North Coastal San Diego
  • 947 posts
Posted by Greg Elmassian on Sunday, November 15, 2015 5:07 PM

You can get a small waterproof micro switch that will operate from the switch throwbar.

Greg

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

 Click here for Greg's web site

 

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