Can i ask a really really stupid question?

[Anonymous]

When planning my layout, is there a minimum radius i should use or what are the common ones in this hobby? I am planning on doing 1:20 scale, narrow gauge. I've been reading, but i cant find any information pertaining to this subject. THanks Bill.

[toenailridgesl]

Minimum radius for LargeScale is 2ft but it looks dumb. The larger the radius the better your trains will look & run. Some of the new large locos in 1:29 & 1:32 need 8 & even 10ft radius as do lots of live-steamers. Just about all B/mann 1:20.3 locos will cope with 2ft radius but overhang, couplers & appearance all detract. Seriously, if you have a trackplan that involves so tight a curve rethink the track plan. It's guaranteed to cause regret later on.
And there are no stupid questions. We all had to start somewhere.

[Marty Cozad]

I agree with Phil, use 8 or 10 dia. that way when your friends comes over they can run also. Plus you may change your mind over time to run bigger units. Plan for body mounted couplers, less problems.

[Gary Crawley]

Bill
There are no stupid questions only stupid answers!!!!
As for minimum radius, I too model narrow gauge in 1:20 scale and have set a minumum of 9' and 10' dia (4'6" and 5' rad) this gives me the correct spacing for my double curves and most manufactures of locos etc, recomend 8' dia.
I use Aristocraft track, Narrow Gauge/European stye track which has 11 ties per foot. (the American style has 14)
I know LGB has different radius track but I'm not sure on the specs.
If you have the room my opinion is 9' dia should be the very minimum unless your modeling mining or industrial etc.

Regards
Gary

[Anonymous]

bill
there are no stupid questions .
you have heard before in your life bigger is better in LS its true bigger is better.

[Anonymous]

Hi Bill
The silly question is the one you should have asked and did not.
The minimum radius comercialy avalable is 2' "DON'T USE IT"
it will restrict what you can do in a way you would not believe believe me I know I made that mistake[:(]
use the largest radius you can reasonably fit in to the space you have
the 2' is great round the christmass tree but on the proper railway forget it
regards John

[whiterab]

Another consideration on tight curves is "How long a train are you planning to run?" My trains slow more on the curves (12 foot diameter) then they do on the grades (3 -4 %).

One other consideration is the use of "S" curves. These need to be avoided even on wide radius curves. They are a no-no on tight curves unless you want to be continously putting the trucks back on the track.

There are no absolutes. The better your track work, the less of the grade you are dealing with, truck versus body mount couplers, the shorter your cars and engines, the manufacturer of your engines - all have an effect on how tight your curve diameters you can get away with.

On my second layout, I spent months working on the track plan before I started moving dirt. My first layout I kept very simple until I figured out what I liked and enjoyed doing. I'm glad I did. What I have most fun doing was quite different than what I first envisioned.

Unlike an HO indoor layout, less track is actually better when working outside. Don't make it complicated unless you have endless patience.

[Anonymous]

What do y'all think of the 5ft some inch stuff (diameter). I have a box of it from Aristocraft. I plan to have four curves for a sort of oblong layout with many turnouts and some sidetracks.

I don't plan to run anything larger than the Bachmann "Annie" ten-wheeler and regular sized and 20ft (scale) cars. I won't have extemely long trains. Am I asking for trouble? Have I made a serious error? Can I cope with it or will I have troubles?

Your opinions will be greatly accepted.

Capt Carrales

[Marty Cozad]

As I've said before, even if ho one is around that has G. plan to make you RR so others can play. They will come. If folks are in the area , they love to run trains. I have adapter couplers for those who have hook and loop. and other couplers. If they don't have a battery powered loco, i lend them one of mine to pull their train.
Planning your RR with friends in mind.
Like back in the baby scale days. lots of folks filled their basements, but forgot when more than 4 people came ,there was no where to stand. Or the older guys could not come into the train room cause of duck unders were to low that and not open.

[Anonymous]

Hi Captain Carrales
If its 5' something radius that will be OK
If its diameter do not go any tighter and Do Not Use R1 2' radius points
go for the next size up .
That will mean your train looks a bit better but do make your loops longer than you think you need them I have 20' fouling points on my passing loops
and the trains are set at five cars for the US trains and 8 wagons for the European/other 4 wheel stock.
I found that due to the size of the trains, even trains of train set size nearly look believable put a 4-4-0 up front and it would[:D]
regards John

[Anonymous]

Hi whiterab
Don't agree with you on S bends the trick is to put a car length straight between the bends.
Because our trains genraly go round a loop a couple of S bends will help even out the wear on wheels so if a couple can be put in its a good idea.
Saves endless shunting on too the turn table or triangle to turn them around to even up the wear.
regards John

[vsmith]

"Mr Garrison can I ask a stupid question?"

"Well Cartmann, you know what I say, there are no stupid questions, only stupid people.."

South Park LOL Not at any of you guys but I just watched the "Tom's Rhinoplastie" episode and I'm still chuckling....

Capt C, if you can, dont do less than 6foot diameter if you can, it will make things easier down the road. If the Annie is the absolute last engine you ever plan on buying then the 5 footers are OK but future engines will be hampered by the smaller diameter. If you've already bought the track go ahead and use it, you can always rebuild it later on when time and money allow.

Crossracer, 8 to 10 foot diameters are the best if your in the early planning stages. use R3 diameter 16000 series switches. What everyone else said.[tup]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by whiterab

Another consideration on tight curves is "How long a train are you planning to run?" My trains slow more on the curves (12 foot diameter) then they do on the grades (3 -4 %).

That sure is right about curve resistance. In my old layout I had 12ft dia curves with no grades, because that's all the room I had. My Bachman 2-4-2 would get into wheel spin when the full 4 wagon train was on the curve. To my surprise the same engine could haul 13 bigger wagons with no problems on a friends layout which even had grades, but much bigger curves.

Glen.

[Anonymous]

Gentlemen;

The matter of minumum or optimum curves is a very deep and divided subject.

If you run LGB as I do, R1 is ok I have some quite big units and they handle R3 quite well but they do look funny, particularly when reversing.

I have settled on R3 which I think is 1.1 m diametre and I also only use electric R3 switches as a standard and it works for me with my grades and my rolling stock. What works for someone else could easily be another matter.

As I bend my own rail i do not worry about having a straight between curves in esses, with LGB as long as you use roughly standard rail components you can do any thing you like. In my area 1 i used a whole lot of track i bought second hand and i had a lot of R1 standard cures and I put them in line and with opposite curves back to back and I have no trouble, well not much anyway. However when I started cutting these standard components down I had some incredibly odd things happen and it was hard to find out what the problem was when you kept on getting derailments, and even harder to fix them. So don't go any smaller than a standard component size irrespective of how you achieve same.


Regards Ian